Elegance & Power: Sassicaia and Saffredi Through the Years

At a recent wine-tasting event focusing on the Sangiovese grape, courtesy of Vasyl Velykanskiy, I was struck by the scarcity of this varietal in my personal consumption -- a reflection of my general ambivalence towards Toscana's offerings, with notable exceptions like Stella di Campalto and a handful of Super Tuscan producers. Credit where credit is due, Zorick Umansky has opened my eyes to these gems.

Despite what my ambivalence might suggest, I'm all ears for a compelling glass of wine, so the prospect of tasting several vintages of the illustrious Sassicaia alongside Saffredi was an enticing one. This opportunity felt like a natural progression from our last venture into the Premier Crus of Bordeaux, whose influence is markedly imprinted on the Super Tuscan wines.

The tale is somewhat legendary (and widely known): robust Bordeaux varietals taking root in the Sangiovese-centric soils of Toscana, leading to a dramatic shift in winemaking traditions and regulatory reforms. This revolution, while easily overlooked today with a dismissive wave of the hand, was groundbreaking at its inception.

Sassicaia's story begins in the rugged, stone-strewn terrains of a 42-hectare vineyard established by Mario Incisa della Rocchetta in 1944. Its name, meaning 'place of many stones', speaks to the unique terroir that contributes to its distinct character. It stands apart as the sole Italian wine with its own appellation, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, a testament to its unparalleled history. Initially a private family affair, its rise to international prominence has been nothing short of meteoric, reshaping global perceptions of Italian wine.

Saffredi, born of Elisabetta Geppetti's pioneering spirit in 1987, emerges from the Maremma, just south of Bolgheri. Known as the 'Lady of Morellino', Elisabetta's venture has produced a wine that is a bold blend, typically of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. Saffredi is synonymous with innovation and excellence in the Super Tuscan category, offering depth and complexity that command attention and respect.

Or so the prevailing narrative goes about these wines. My primary mission, however, is to relish these renowned bottles firsthand and form my own impressions. The lineup doesn't just stop at Sassicaia and Saffredi. As a nod to the more refined palates, a bottle of Stella di Campalto is included, offering a graceful counterbalance to the robust profiles of the Super Tuscans, proving that delicacy and strength can indeed coexist beautifully in the world of wine. And naturally, concluding with a touch of sweetness brings the entire experience complete.

Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2006

Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2004

Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2003

Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 2002

Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 1999

Fattoria le Pupille Saffredi 1997

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2016

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2007

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2006

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2005

Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino Piccoli Contenitori 2016

Weingut Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2009

Château Rieussec Sauternes 2005

Raw scores