Gulfi Carjcanti 2014
Ratings
Adore this wine. Beautiful evolution - at 11 years old, it still pulls the same trick it did in youth: channelling serious Chablis from Sicily. Honey and flowers, oxidised apples slicked with oil, chalk dust everywhere. Acid cuts like a blade, finish goes on forever, everything in perfect balance. This is what happens when Carricante gets serious - it stops trying to be tropical and starts speaking mineral truth. It's pure, intellectual pleasure that makes me stupidly happy.
Sophisticated, multilayered, and beautiful bouquet of honey, flowers, nuts, autumn orchard, pressed Bai Mudan, lemon, shells, and lanolin. Delicious, well-structured, slightly oily, and evolving with a long, flavourful aftertaste. There are even notes of Jerez in the finish. Gorgeous wine!
About Producer
The fact that my relations with Sicilian wines are special might be something obvious. But not many people know that it all started with Gulfi stand at the very first Kyiv Wine festival. When we met, I was already tired (e.g. drunk). I almost passed by, disgusted by my own weakness, when a Gulfi representative (apologies, I don't remember her name) stopped me and offered a glass of their wine. I looked at the representative welcoming face. I looked at the naked ass on the label. And I realised there are no reasons to reject this present from Dionysus. And even though I don't remember which wines I tasted exactly, the Gulfi imprint is what I took out of that overly drunk day.
It is worth mentioning that the naked ass on the label has a meaning. A meaning close enough to what one might think. Meet an ancient mosaic from Villa Romana del Casale located in Piazza Armerina in the province of Enna. This mosaic depicts Eros (Cupid) and Psyche (Beauty). According to the story, out of envy of Venus, they are forced to love each other in secret. But passion rarely goes unnoticed, and in their case, it found a physical manifestation (no puns) in the form of a daughter (no puns, seriously) they called Vulptas (literally meaning 'pleasure'), a goddess of sensual pleasures. And how does it connect to Gulfi? Sicily is Psyche, Gulfi is Eros, and their child is wine, a sensual pleasure.
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