Norm Wines Vol. 3

I know, I know. I've been promising to bring some norm wine for ages---something that's both delicious and doesn't require selling a kidney for pleasure. Right, because we need to save those kidneys for Stella di Campalto, Burgundy, and some exceptional Champagne. But you know, I've had a bit of a problem finding good, everyday wines lately. Since my wife stopped drinking, my at-home wine consumption has drastically decreased, leaving less room for experimenting with wines of various price ranges. Most of the wines I discover end up at our office wine o'clock, so my personal stash isn't exactly overflowing.

But these are just excuses. They don't alleviate our shared suffering from the lack of norm wine in our lives. So today, I've curated a selection of wines (considering the weather) that I think are excellent, offer great value for money, and that I enjoy drinking solo when they're available. And since I've already inundated you with wines that are hard to find in Kyiv, I decided to choose ones that, if not this exact vintage or label, you can actually go out and buy.

Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Loureiro 2022

Handpicked grapes are placed into small boxes and swiftly transported to the winery in a refrigerated environment. The whole de-stemmed grapes are then pressed, followed by cold clarification for 48-72 hours. A long fermentation process ensues at low temperatures of 14-18ºC. Finally, the wine is aged for a minimum of four months on fine lees, with regular bâtonnage to enhance complexity and texture.

Lovely entry-level wine. It's both easy to understand and also points toward more interesting wines. Notes of flowers, citrus, green apples, shells, and maritime hints. On the palate, it's fresh and citrusy with a nice texture from lees aging and a lingering smoky finish mixed with fruits and flowers.

Gulfi Carjcanti 2020

"Carjcanti" is a pure expression of Carricante, sourced from the Vigna Campo vineyards in the Passo Guastella district of Chiaramonte Gulfi. Nestled in the Monti Iblei region within Chiaramonte Gulfi (in the Ragusa province of South-Eastern Sicily), the vines flourish in limestone-clay soils at an altitude of 420 meters. The harvest typically commences during the third week of September. The grapes are then transformed into wine via direct pressing, followed by fermentation in both stainless steel tanks and oak barrels of varying sizes (500L and 2500L).

I can't help but love this wine. It's just too young. Sophisticated, nuanced, and mineral with notes of shells, white flowers, chalk, and green apples. Good acidity and structure, with a very long and nuanced aftertaste. In just 5 years, it will be a beauty to behold. Good value.

Fazenda Agricola Augalevada Mercenario branco 2021

Mercenario Blanco is crafted by blending four grape varieties: Treixadura, Albariño, Torrontés, and Palomino. The primary source of grapes for this wine is the Manolo de Traveso vineyard, known for its clay-rich soil and granite bedrock, situated among some of the highest vineyards in the Miño River Valley. Additionally, a portion of the Treixadura grapes is sourced from the decomposed granite vineyard in the Arnoia Valley, while the Albariño grapes hail from the lower Miño area in Filgueira. Smaller vineyard parcels can also be found scattered across the three valleys: Arnoia, Avia, and Miño.

The primary fermentation starts in stainless steel with low temperatures. After fermentation, they are transferred to an equal mixture of 400-litre amphoras and 600-litre stainless steel tanks for around ten months of ageing.

Well hello, biological aging! With time, this wine has lost even more fruit, making the voile-like notes more apparent. Some love it, some hate it, but it's hard to stay indifferent. Yes, it kind of strips the wine of its origin traces, but this one is so well crafted and delicious. Mineral, sophisticated, wonderfully balanced, with an almost eternal aftertaste. For new releases, look for Ollos Branco as Mercenario is no longer made.

Fazenda Agricola Augalevada Mercenario tinto 2021

This wine is wonderful---consistent, delicious, and sophisticated, yet it remains approachable. It offers aromas of cherry, wild strawberry, red apple, damp earth, and a hint of Borodino bread. On the palate, it's fresh and juicy, with a red-apple-like acidity and tannin. The finish is elegant and mouthwatering.

Comm. G.B. Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga 2021

Love this wine. It's easy to confuse it with a warm Pinot Noir, but after all, it's not every day we drink Pelaverga, right? It boasts a beautiful bouquet of red fruits, forest floor, leather, flowers, dried herbs, strawberry jam, and a hint of wet wood. On the palate, it's juicy with a touch of grip from ripe tannins. The long, delicious aftertaste features notes of damp forest floor, wet wood, red fruits, and spices. Elegant, sophisticated, and delicious. No need to hold onto this one---enjoy it now.

Matassa Olla Blanc 2023

No surprises here---just a delicious skin-contact blend from Matassa. Notes of honey, shampoo, nectarine, persimmon, and orange skin. Relatively fresh with just enough acidity to keep it quaffable. Stylish, neat, and delicious.

Testalonga El Bandito I am the Ninja 2022

"I am the Ninja" is a méthode ancestrale made of Chenin Blanc from a 4 hectares vineyard on a sandstone. The average age of vines is above 60 years. Spontaneous fermentation in fibreglass tanks with indigenous yeasts. Made from grapes, isn't it? So nothing is added.

What can I say? I love these bubbles. Easy to drink, easy to enjoy---no fuss, just bliss. But it's not mindlessly simple; it nicely combines fruits and yeast influence, resulting in a bouquet full of stone fruits, white flowers, fresh bread, and ice cream. Yes, it's on the sweeter side, but who cares when it's so quaffable and fresh?

Raw scores