Burgundy 201: Chambolle-Musigny

Of course, Maksym is a dangerous man. First, he invites us on a small journey of three lecture tastings through Burgundy, purposefully leaving out Beaujolais, to simply lay the foundation and spark a love affair with this patchwork region. And we do fall in love! But what comes next? Next, we delve deep into each commune and village! All in the quest to fully understand their stylistic nuances by exploring a small locale from broad village wines to specific premier cru and grand cru. I know, it sounds quite nerdy and expensive. But we're not in a hurry, are we? And even if this level of detail doesn't excite you, at least it's an opportunity to enjoy some exceptionally delicious wine.

Finding a good selection that meets these criteria without costing a fortune is no easy task. But sometimes, it's possible. This is how we find ourselves in Chambolle-Musigny. This small village in Côte de Nuits is renowned for producing some of the most ethereal, refined and perfumed Pinot Noirs in the world. Its two grand cru vineyards, Bonnes Mares and Musigny, are legendary. Bonnes Mares, which straddles the border with Morey-Saint-Denis, is known for producing wines with more structure and depth, while Musigny is often hailed for its unparalleled finesse and aromatic complexity.

In addition to these illustrious grand crus, Chambolle-Musigny boasts several premier crus that are highly esteemed. Les Amoureuses, often considered of grand cru quality, is celebrated for its seductive and floral character. Other notable premier crus include Les Fuées, Les Gruenchers, Les Charmes, Les Cras, and La Combe d'Orveau. Each of these vineyards brings its unique expression to the wine, contributing to the rich tapestry of Chambolle-Musigny's viticultural landscape.

As you can see, we travelled through some of these exceptional vineyards to savour the nuanced elegance that Chambolle-Musigny offers, and to understand why this village holds a special place in the heart of Burgundy enthusiasts.

Hudelot-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 2021

Perfumed yet a bit pushy bouquet of sour cherry, red flowers, spices, and plums with some greenish notes. Juicy and fresh with a neat texture---tannins are not too grippy but add volume. The finish is long with an interesting dark chocolate bitterness. A good wine with questionable value; in this lineup, it almost feels like an overpriced table wine. But hey, it's good.

Domaine Gérard Seguin Chambolle-Musigny Derriere le Four 2016

Oh my God, what a beautiful and perfumed bouquet! Blueberries, ripe cherries, charcoal, spices, chocolate, and sweet menthol. It's interesting how, despite its density, it still manages to be ethereal. Medium acidity, but enough to keep it juicy. Beautiful finish with notes of raspberry and earth. Almost perfectly balanced. Quaffable and delicious---perfect to drink now. Great value and style; you can never go wrong with Seguin.

Domaine Méo-Camuzet Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras 2021

This wine masterfully combines concentration and delicacy. Despite its density, it remains airy, perfumed, and seamless on all levels. Beautiful bouquet of blueberries, cherry, plum, grilled meat, and a hint of pine in the background. Almost perfectly balanced, it's silky, quaffable, and delicious. A sophisticated beauty that you can drink like wild strawberry compote. Talk about contrasts.

Domaine Bruno Clair Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 2020

What a style! Beautiful perfumed bouquet of pines, berries, stones, blood orange, coffee, black pepper, peperoncino, and paprika affumicata. Airy on the palate and almost perfectly balanced, it offers good fruit and juiciness. The long, slightly smoked finish is incredible. A shame it's so young.

Domaine Confuron Christian Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2019

Oh my. This is just another level. Intense (in the context of Chambolle-Musigny) and perfumed bouquet of hibiscus, cherry, raspberries, earth, grilled meat, herbs, fried sunflower seeds, dark chocolate with orange zest, and orange oil. So fresh, so juicy, with incredible acidity. On the palate it's like compote---seamless, delicious, and quaffable. The aftertaste is long, though it lacks some evolution. The wine is obviously too young, although already irresistible. The finish is wonderful with smoke, herbs, hibiscus, raspberries, and ya'an cha!

Resources

1. Vins de Bourgogne
2. Parr, R., & Mackay, J. (2018). The Sommelier's Atlas of Taste: A Field Guide to the Great Wines of Europe. Ten Speed Press.
3. Harding, J. (2023). The Oxford companion to wine. Oxford Companions.

Raw scores