
2022
Region
France › Jura › Arbois › Arbois AOC
Type
white · still
Grapes
Chardonnay
Alcohol
12%
Volume
750 mL
Available at
Turns out to be the Melon à Queue Rouge biotype of Chardonnay, not Pinot Gris (as I thought) - which makes retrospective sense given the lean, chalky frame. Salty and round, complex and long, drinks easily despite the structure pulling weight. Yellow fruits and nuts on the palate, with a saline pull but no funkiness. The biotype's calling card delivered cleanly.
Les Dalles is Chardonnay - specifically the local 'Melon à Queue Rouge' biotype (also called Melon d'Arbois or Melon de Jura), an old red-stemmed strain of Chardonnay rather than a separate variety. The cuvée comes from limestone and white marl in Arbois, planted around 2017, with native-yeast fermentation and ouillé élevage in neutral wood. The wine tends to show more salinity and a leaner, chalkier line than the standard Chardonnay clones at the domaine, which is the whole point of bottling the biotype separately. 2022's warm Jura season gives weight, but the parcel keeps the cut honest.