Amigos blancos

I love how, at some point---probably sensing the approach of winter (so it must have been in autumn)---some friends started asking, "What about the white Tondonia?" Do you think this is somehow tied to our now-established tradition of gathering early in the year to drink these wines? Not quite. It's just that new shipments had arrived, and everyone remembered them. But yes, this tradition does exist, and I'm delighted that we managed to gather again for such an occasion. And again, without a single red wine. The only non-white was a rosé. Moreover, we focused on older releases rather than "fresh" ones.

Just think about it---the newest Gravonia is from the 2016 vintage. Tondonia Blanco Reserva? That's 2013. And as for the fresh rosé release, it hasn't even happened yet, as far as I know. So, the only "new" release at our tasting was the /Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva/---and even that was from 2004, staying true to the grand traditions of R. López de Heredia.

But the most remarkable thing wasn't just the tasting itself---it was the circumstances that allowed us to make this gathering possible. Unfortunately, it's becoming increasingly difficult to get these wines. The more people who discover them, the tougher the competition, right? And that's just for the newer releases.

Thankfully, our circle includes plenty of enthusiasts. When you ask the right questions, you'll find that we can make this kind of celebration a reality. I'm endlessly grateful to everyone who contributed---a bottle from their cellar, a helping hand to snag some of these bottles from under the noses of other fans. It's through this kind of collaboration and shared passion that such gatherings are even possible. And what a joy they are!

A few words about R. López de Heredia

We find ourselves in Haro, the mythical capital of Rioja Alta. This region's rise to prominence as a prestigious winemaking area was catalysed by a tiny but devastating invader: phylloxera. This curious insect, accidentally brought from North America to Europe, ravaged vineyards across the continent. The resulting Great French Wine Blight drove many French winemakers to seek new opportunities elsewhere. Among the regions they turned to was Rioja, where they recognised untapped potential.

Rioja's history, much like Spain's, has been marked by peaks and valleys. Yet potential alone is never enough---wine doesn't make itself. Don Rafael López de Heredia y Landeta was a passionate student when French négociants visited Rioja, seeking alternative grape sources. Inspired by their vision, he followed their path and fell in love with Haro, recognising the unique combination of its soil and climate. In 1877, he began designing and constructing what is now the López de Heredia bodega, the oldest winery in Haro and one of the first three established in the Rioja region.

López de Heredia is celebrated for its unwavering commitment to heritage and their unique house style. Their wines are nothing short of time machines, transporting drinkers to an era when winemaking was an art of patience and tradition. Today, the bodega is led by María José López de Heredia, who eloquently explains that "tradition" does not equate to immobility or resistance to change. Instead, tradition is about harmonising with the rhythms of the world and nature, adapting while upholding eternal principles.

López de Heredia crafts wines across four distinct ranges: Viña Tondonia, Viña Bosconia, Viña Cubillo, and Viña Gravonia.

R. López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Blanco Crianza 2014

Viña Gravonia consists of a single wine---a white Crianza. Made entirely from Viura, it comes from 24 hectares in the Gravonia (Zaconia) vineyard, situated near the banks of the Ebro River. This vineyard is perfectly suited to producing white grapes that achieve both ripeness and remarkable complexity.

The wine's character is further elevated through four years of ageing in casks, followed by at least another four years resting in the bottle before its release.

Viña Tondonia

Viña Tondonia is the most renowned and extensive vineyard of López de Heredia, encompassing 100 hectares planted with both red and white grape varieties. From these vineyards, five wines are crafted: Tinto Reserva, Tinto Gran Reserva, Blanco Reserva, Blanco Gran Reserva, and Rosado Gran Reserva.

The Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva is a Viura-based blend, with just 10% Malvasía---a grape that is quite rare in Rioja, accounting for only 0.23% of the Denomination's total cultivated area. This wine spends six years ageing in oak barrels. After bottling, it is given up to four additional years of bottle ageing to develop its signature smoothness and complex aromatic nuances.

R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva 2012

R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva 2011

R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva 2006

R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva 2005

Marques de Murrieta Ygay Capellanía Reserva 1997

This legendary wine was a bonus bottle generously brought by Maksym.

R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva 2004

Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva is the rarest white wine in the López de Heredia range. It is a blend of Viura (90%) and Malvasía (10%), sourced entirely from the estate's own vineyards.

The wine undergoes an extraordinary ageing process:

• Barrel: Aged for 10 years in American oak barrels, with racking twice per year and fining using fresh egg whites.
• Bottle: Bottled unfiltered in 75 cl bottles and aged further.

A total of 10,000 bottles were filled in November 2018.

R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva 2012

Viña Tondonia Rosado is a blend of Garnacha (60%), Tempranillo (30%), and Viura (10%). The wine matured in American oak barrels for four years before bottling, followed by several additional years of ageing at the winery prior to release. The 2012 vintage is the most recent (AFAIK), with a total production of just 15,000 bottles by López de Heredia.

André Jacquart Experience 2011

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