Verduno Pelaverga

Pelaverga Piccolo barely exists outside Verduno, a grape that nearly vanished last century as growers turned to Nebbiolo and survives now on under twenty hectares in the village. It makes a pale, light-bodied red with almost no tannin, bright acidity and a real peppercorn snap over wild strawberry and redcurrant. The fruit comes off Burlotto's small parcels around Verduno and Roddi, on the blue-grey Sant'Agata marls at the Barolo zone's cool northern edge; it ferments in open oak and steel and then rests in tank, kept fresh and perfumed rather than pushed. Best with a slight chill. 13.5%, a light red that earned its cult following.