Christian Tschida Brutal 2023

Same wine, but it's settling in. Less VA-driven now, more round - softer, fuller. Spicy berries and sour cherries still in front, with the vegetal and savoury notes integrated rather than pushy. Salt, minerality, umami meatiness underneath. Drinks like a savoury mors - that compote-juice quality but on its feet.

Christian Tschida's contribution to the BRUTAL!!! line. The badge originally launched 2010 in the Languedoc by Antony Tortul (La Sorga) with cofounders Joan Ramon Escoda, Laureano Serres, Axel Prüfer, and Rémi Poujol - 'brutal' here used in the colloquial Spanish/Catalan sense of 'excellent'. Originally a marker for wines made with no added sulphur and no filtration. After the badge was misused in the late 2010s, Tortul relaunched it in 2021 as 'La compagnie du vrai vin brutal', now restricted to vetted producers who work zero/zero across their full range and bottle one Brutal per harvest.

Brutal 2023 is approximately 50/50 Pinot Noir and Blaufränkisch - the Blaufränkisch joined the cuvée in 2023 from a neighbouring plot, where earlier vintages were Pinot-only. Old-vines Pinot from Tschida's Eisner site on Illmitz's lacustrine chalk. Spontaneous fermentation in a large neutral Stockinger barrel, no fining, no filtration, no added SO2. Around 11% ABV.

Elegance in its youth - spicy berries and sour cherries showing potential but clearly asking for patience. Much better than a year ago, now with more fruit to accompany the vegetal and savoury notes. Minerality, salt, umami meatiness underneath. Pickles and a delicate layer of VA. Stylish and delicate, but definitely one for the patient.

Elegance in its youth - spicy berries and sour cherries showing potential but clearly asking for patience. It's playing it cool, not trying to be a showoff. Give it 3+ years and watch the magic happen. Currently showing some vegetal touches and savory notes, with a foundation of minerality, salt, and umami meatiness. Stylish and delicate, but definitely a wine for the patient enjoyer.

Brutal

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