Les Davoche

Tess Davison and Charles Ripoche's winemaking journey as Davoche Wines began in 2021 with a simple yet ambitious plan. They started with their négociant range, Clafoutis, working closely with trusted growers while simultaneously laying the groundwork for their own venture. Their patience paid off - they now tend to 2.5 hectares of heritage vines in Cassagnes, a windswept corner of Roussillon where the sun seems to have a special relationship with the soil.

Their backgrounds read like a gastronomic adventure novel. Tess, an Australian native, earned her stripes in some of Europe's most prestigious kitchens - Noma, Mugaritz, and Le Manoir - before trading her chef's knife for pruning shears and diving into oenology. Meanwhile, Charles, born and bred in the Loire Valley, learned his craft under wine world heavyweights: Antoine Foucault of Domaine du Collier (whose father Charly made Clos Rougeard legendary) and Cyril Fhal of Clos du Rouge Gorge. Their paths crossed at Felton Road in New Zealand - because sometimes the wine world has a sense of humour about bringing people together.

Now settled in southern France, they've embraced a philosophy that's both old-school and forward-thinking. Their approach to farming is hands-on and thoughtful - they're planting carob trees for nitrogen fixation, adding strawberry and peach trees for diversity, and creating homes for everything from bees to bats. They work biodynamically, making low-to-no sulfite, unfiltered wines with short macerations - a technique they picked up from their mentor Cyril Fhal.

The exciting news? They've just released their first estate wines, and we couldn't resist getting our hands on all of them. We gathered at Lo Bar with friends to taste through the lineup, adding a twist to the evening with a blind tasting. I sneaked in a bottle of their négociant wine, and along with Vasyl, we threw in a new arrival of Brutal by Tschida for good measure. While nobody managed to guess the wines correctly (wine-tasting humility at its finest), it made for an engaging evening of discovery and discussion.

Davoche La Sardiniere 2023

This wine is a direct press of Grenache Blanc from 14-year-old vineyard, planted entirely on schist slate soil. The grapes were gently pressed in a basket press before being transferred to barrels for 12 months of ageing. The barrels consist predominantly of new oak.

As the name suggests, this wine showcases a strikingly mineral profile, complemented by herbal and medicinal notes. Its vibrant acidity provides a precise, linear structure, leading to an exceptionally long finish with subtle touches of toasty oak.

A maritime charm hits you right away - imagine sardines lounging in a garden of herbs, with yellow fruits scattered around. Then nuts show up to the party, bringing along their friend lemon. The structure is like a well-tailored suit, salty but elegant, with tannins playing their part without stealing the show. It's a marathon runner, not a sprinter - long finish that keeps you coming back for more.

Davoche Karaka 2023

This is a white wine made with one week of skin-contact maceration, crafted from a 50/50 blend of Macabeu and Grenache Blanc. The vineyards, aged 80 and 14 years respectively, are planted on schist slate soils.

The Grenache Blanc was harvested at just 11.5% potential alcohol and destemmed, while the Macabeu, picked at 13%, was left whole bunch. This careful balance resulted in a perfectly ripe final wine at 12% ABV.

To refine its texture, the wine was aged for nine months in a mix of old oak barrels, which helped soften the tannins, giving it a rounded mouthfeel. Following this, the wine was bottle-aged for an additional six months before its release.

Playing hard to get at first, but patience reveals a serious orange wine that's clearly read its classics. Sure, youth is holding it back a bit, but there's real muscle under that reserved exterior. Think Carso-style attitude - herbaceous notes, orange peel, and this fascinating menthol freshness. Pencil shavings sneak in there too. It's like a good book - complex but not shouting about it, with layers you'll keep discovering.

Davoche Peychourigue 2023

This wine is crafted from Macabeu sourced from our 80-year-old home block vineyard. The grapes underwent a 12-hour foot-stomped maceration before being gently pressed in a basket press. The wine was then aged for 12 months in a mix of old and one-year-old barrels.

More outgoing than its sibling, showing off a captivating nose that's like a coastal picnic - bruised and grilled yellow fruits meeting sea breeze. Salted nuts, honey and fresh herbs complete the picture. The palate goes full-on maritime with a sardine-like salinity. While the acidity's playing it safe (drink now, folks), there's plenty to love in the fruit and those slightly grainy tannins.

Davoche Sol y lès 2023

This wine is made from Carignan Noir grown in an 80-year-old vineyard on schist soils. The grapes underwent a gentle four-day maceration with very light stomping, followed by a basket press. The wine was aged for nine months in old oak barrels and bottle-aged for an additional six months before release.

The result is a delicate, elegant wine with notes of jasmine and fresh raspberries. Harvested at the perfect time to preserve its tannins, the use of old oak allowed the wine to breathe and develop a beautifully rounded character.

Volatile acidity plays peek-a-boo with forest berries and menthol notes. Structurally, it's smooth like kisel, making it dangerously drinkable. Don't let its apparent simplicity fool you - there's complexity hiding beneath that approachable exterior. Smoke and wormwood notes add intrigue. Not necessarily a long-term cellar candidate, but who cares when it's this enjoyable now?

Davoche Muti V23 NV

This is a vermouth crafted from Carignan Noir. The grapes were harvested at 14% potential alcohol, and fermentation was halted with 95% grape alcohol when 4 grams of residual sugar remained. The base wine was then aged in old oak barrels for 8 months.

A bold character here - bell peppers chatting with spices while dark wild cherries jam in the background. Bitter herbs like wormwood and angelica together with bitter orange keep things interesting. The palate's wonderfully dry, balancing that wild cherry jam with hot pepper kicks. Props for keeping it more vinous than bitter. Cardamom and some other spices add their exotic signature to the mix.

Davoche Clafoutis Syrah 2021

Davoche's Clafoutis Syrah 2021 showcases grapes from La Vigne Grande's organic-certified 12-year-old vines, grown on light granite soil. This négociant wine is crafted from fruit purchased from neighboring vintner Aymeric Paulet. The winemaking process begins with a gentle 3-day maceration in stainless steel, followed by barrel fermentation and aging in used barrels for 12 months. The wine then rests in bottle for an additional 6 months before release, allowing its character to fully develop.

Memory (or life) plays tricks sometimes - it's different from what I remember, but still brings joy. Volatile acidity and abundant fruit lead the charge, with tomato notes joining in. Medium+ acidity keeps things lively, and while it's not quite found its feet yet, it's deliciously approachable. Milk chocolate, pepper, and tobacco make appearances. The seamlessness isn't quite there compared to previous encounters, but at this price point? Still a solid glou-glou contender.

Christian Tschida Brutal 2023

Elegance in its youth - spicy berries and sour cherries showing potential but clearly asking for patience. It's playing it cool, not trying to be a showoff. Give it 3+ years and watch the magic happen. Currently showing some vegetal touches and savory notes, with a foundation of minerality, salt, and umami meatiness. Stylish and delicate, but definitely a wine for the patient enjoyer.

Raw scores