Vinul Moldovei Vol. 4

My emotional attachment to Moldovan wine is hardly a secret to anyone who's spoken with me in person. Like vegetarians from that stupid joke, I bring up my origins within the first minute of meeting someone.

But I don't view things through rose-tinted glasses either. While I genuinely enjoy drinking Moldovan wines and following the development of new and old projects, I'm cautious about excessive national pride - it can unintentionally overshadow challenges in local winemaking. It's essential to celebrate successes, but also to discuss areas for improvement in a professional and constructive manner, without harshness or personal criticism.

And I love authenticity, which is why it's so wonderful to see so many brilliant small producers still emerging in Moldova. My favourites include the experimentalists at Somma (who don't always make good wines, by the way, but they're not afraid to take risks!), the tastemakers at Equinox (who might not be entirely my style, but it's hard to deny their quality and influence on Moldova's wine scene), the mad experimenter DiWinety, and many others. This is our fourth gathering where I bring various new releases to showcase this diversity and living dynamism.

This time the lineup is particularly exciting: a lovely traditional sparkler from Vinum Estate, white and red from Equinox's unexpectedly elegant lineup, a Riesling made from 50-year-old vines, a brand new project from people who got tired of working at a large factory and created their own small venture - producing a stunningly beautiful Malbec, a garagiste who took Ion Creangă's famous tale about Harap Alb perhaps a bit too close to heart (hence "Negru Împărat"), and a sweet wine from a large winery that clearly waited patiently in someone's cellar for years before finding its way to us.

And to give these wines their due, we're not gathering at some fancy establishment - we're meeting at a shashlik joint! Simple food and Moldovan wines, the combination that raised me, and I'm delighted to share it with others.

P.S. This tasting was available exclusively to my mono base supporters. If you'd like a chance to join these private gatherings, simply become a supporter - details are on mono base.

Matassa Cuvée Marguerite 2022

Oh, this is lovely. Beautifully balanced as always with Matassa - that tropical exuberance has settled into something more composed now. Slight funky edge that adds character without distraction. Mineral backbone holds everything together, bright acidity keeps it lively. The kind of wine that just disappears from the glass because it's so bloody drinkable. Consistently excellent.

Vinum Estate Brut Natur 2022

Herbal edge on the nose with lime, nectarine, white cherry, quince jam, tropical yoghurt. That soft buttery bread character with biscuit notes. But wow - this seriously delivers. Yes, it leans tropical, but backed by proper structure and vibrant acidity. Touch of cider character, fine bubbles, long finish. Compelling stuff.

Equinox Luchineasa Alb 2024

Fun, but simple. Berries, bright fruit, good balance - lovely summer wine, really. Trouble is, I opened it right after that cracking sparkler and it completely vanished in comparison. My mistake for the sequencing. On its own terms though? Pretty pleasant, just not particularly memorable.

Te Wā Riesling '74 2024

Far too young, obviously, but the Riesling character comes through clearly. Fruit, minerality, definite energy - yet frustratingly simple at this stage. No idea if bottle age will unlock something more interesting or if this is essentially it. Cool wine, but I wanted more.

Equinox Luchineasa Roșu 2024

Ripe plums, cherries, wild bitter cherries, floral notes without excessive spice. Fresh and juicy with succulent mouthfeel, lively cherry fruit balanced by crisp acidity. Clean, vibrant, fruit-forward finish. Wonderful value.

Vinhart Malbec 2023

Lifted and perfumed - bright cherries, plum, mulberry with violet and spice. Oak shows restraint, present but not dominating. Not overly extracted or powerful, just vibrant and earthy with a bit of plushness. Good tannic grip, long spicy finish. Round, delicious, uncomplicated in the best sense.

Minis Terrios Negru Împărat 2020

Oh, initially too vegetal, but that blows off quickly to reveal these gorgeous liquorice-Coca-Cola notes. Plums, sweet spices, vanilla. Good acidity, excellent structure. Probably too young - feels like it wants another few years - but clearly well made. Powerful, long, properly delicious. This will be something special with patience.

Cricova Tatius L-94 NV

Not particularly complex or multi-layered, but it works. Decent acidity for a sweet wine, though I'd like more depth. Not entirely sure how old this is - tastes mature but hard to pin down. Delicious in a nostalgic way, reminding me of dinners with my grandfather.

Raw scores