Matassa '21 Uncorked

While wines can speak for themselves, very few people accurately understand what they are saying and the subtleties are often lost in translation with many tasters wanting to define wines in a single sniff and sip.

--- Tom Lubbe

I'm gradually developing my willpower and patience. Of course, I could stash all the Matassa away to rediscover it in a few years. But as I ponder wine storage solutions, the bottles start to mewl, begging to be tasted. The bottles of the latest release are understandably impatient in their youth. Yet, my thirst was ignited upon realizing I had enough 2021 bottles for a proper tasting. And why not? Matassa wines are irresistibly tempting! And the first few years of their development are so dynamic, it calls for field testing!

And it was truly delicious. Some wines vividly illustrated their development, while others seemed to beckon for more time to evolve.

Matassa

• Tom Lubbe, hailing from New Zealand, refined his winemaking approach in South Africa, where he embraced natural techniques and an appreciation for Mediterranean varieties. His journey led him to Roussillon, where at Matassa, he's renowned for championing minimal intervention and authentically expressing the unique terroir.
• Nestled near the Pyrenees in Roussillon, Matassa is cradled by a mosaic of schist, marl, black slate, and black marl, setting a dramatic stage for the vines to thrive directly on the mother rock --- a stark contrast to the topsoil-centric vineyards of neighbouring Languedoc. The domaine's treasure is its venerable vines, some witnessing over a century, and a diverse palette of grape varieties, including indigenous gems like Carignan and Macabeu, alongside less conventional picks, painting a complex portrait of flavours and textures.
• The signature of Matassa's wines lies in their elegant restraint --- light, approachable, yet brimming with a quiet intensity. Each bottle encapsulates a harmonious balance, offering a juicy, vibrant, and thought-provoking sip that mirrors Tom Lubbe's personal palate.

Domaine Matassa, nestled in Calce within the Val d'Agly area of Roussillon, spans about 20 hectares of naturally tended vineyards. The vines, aging from 30 to 115 years, thrive in this unique terrain, focusing on Northern Catalunya's native varieties like Grenache Gris, Maccabeu, Muscat d'Alexandrie, Lladonner Pelut (Catalan Grenache), Carignan, and Mourvedre. The result? Wines distinct for their moderate alcohol, subtle tannins, and understated oak, marked by vibrant acidity and a profound mineral freshness.

The driving forces behind Matassa are Tom Lubbe, his spouse Nathalie Gauby, and Sam Harrop MW. Tom, a New Zealander with roots in South Africa, was mentored by Louise Hofmeyer, whose devotion to indigenous yeasts and restrained yields influenced him greatly. His curiosity about Mediterranean varietals led him to Domaine Gauby in Calce, where a brief stint in 1999 evolved into a deeper engagement, thanks to Gérard Gauby's camaraderie.

It was here, amidst the vines, that Tom and Gérard's sister, Nathalie, forged a bond, leading to marriage and the decision to lay down roots in Roussillon, giving life to Matassa in 2003 (after giving life to their first child). Their humble beginnings saw their first vintage crafted in their living room, a situation that prompted Gérard to generously offer the old Gauby cellar in 2004.

Matassa's wines are a testament to evolving practices. The vineyards, organically certified by Ecocert, eschew chemical treatments, focusing instead on cover crops that (according to Tom) have notably decreased the alcohol content from 13.5% in 2005 to 10.5% in 2018. Early harvesting, particularly of Muscat in August, and the flourishing insect life enhancing soil health, are credited (by Tom) for the nuanced flavors in their wines.

In the cellar, changes are equally pronounced. All wines are now labeled Vin de France to be free from the regulatory shackles, embracing unconventional methods like skin maceration for whites, following "Alexandria" 2008, his first macerated white; and prioritizing whole-cluster infusions over maceration for reds. Oak, if used, is for aeration, not structure, and longer elevage is bypassed in favor of capturing the wine's inherent essence sooner.

Matassa's influence extends beyond its bottles. As a beacon in the winemaking community, it attracts and mentors the next generation of vintners, all drawn by Tom Lubbe's legacy and expertise.

Bertè & Cordini Oblio 2011

A welcome drink is more than a mere gesture; it's a celebration of punctuality, a palate refresher, and a playground for vinous experiments. Admittedly, my penchant for popping Champagne as a welcome has set a lofty standard. Now, it's time to embrace my fate and dive into that self-dug hole.

Let's venture into Oltrepò Pavese. Tucked away in Lombardy's northern reaches, this region might not bask in the same limelight as its neighbour, Franciacorta, but it's no less deserving. Renowned for its sparkling wines crafted through the Metodo Classico, Oltrepò Pavese is Lombardy's vineyard titan. It stretches from fertile plains to the rolling foothills of the Apennines, offering a mosaic of terrains that imbue its wines with distinct character.

The region's pride, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, earned its stripes in 2007, championing the traditional champagne-making techniques. Here, Pinot Noir, or Pinot Nero as the locals insist, thrives in the cool climate and well-drained soils. While Franciacorta has long hogged the spotlight with its polished bubbles, Oltrepò Pavese is stepping out of the shadows. It promises a unique sparkle for those daring to venture beyond the well-trodden paths of Italian sparkling wine. And that includes us, right?

Oblio, a pure Pinot Nero expression, hails from the Valle Versa's mid to upper reaches, flourishing between 200 and 500 metres above sea level. The vines bask in silty marl, rich in active limestone and gifted with ample water reserves. The winemaking process is meticulous: gentle, gradual grape pressing, fermentation at 18°C in stainless steel tanks with select yeasts, and a careful assembly of the finest base wines to strike a balance of structure, freshness, minerality, and aromatic complexity. The wine undergoes secondary fermentation in the bottle, resting on its lees for a minimum of 72 months (way above the 15 months required by law). During disgorgement, no sugar is added.

Matassa Olla Blanc 2021

This wine, named after its single vineyard origin, is a blend of Macabeo, Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains, and Muscat of Alexandria -- at least, that's what Louis/Dressner suggests. However, the web offers a mix of narratives about its production. Sourced from 45-year-old vines set in lime and clay, the grapes are known to undergo a whole-cluster maceration, but the exact duration on the skins is a topic of debate. Some sources mention a two-week period, while others claim it's only one week. Fermentation and ageing take place in 2,000l concrete vats. In the absence of official technical sheets, the wine's actual maceration process remains a subtle mystery, inviting us to trust our senses and the wine's own story as it unfolds in the glass.

Matassa Cuvée Marguerite 2021

This blend combines Macabeo, Muscat of Alexandria, and Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains from 50-year-old vines thriving in schist and marl soils. Named in honor of Tom's wife Natalie's grandmother, it's a harmonious meld of three distinct parcels. The grapes undergo whole-cluster maceration and are co-fermented in concrete tanks. Following fermentation, the wine is transferred to 2500L foudres, where it ages on the lees, enhancing its complexity and texture.

Matassa Blanc 2021

This top white wine by Tom is a unique blend of Grenache Gris and Macabeo from vines over 95 years old, rooted in schist soil. It's an exception in Tom's collection as the only white blend not named after a single vineyard. The winemaking process is precise: Grenache Gris undergoes a whole-cluster, direct press, while Macabeo is macerated for two weeks. After pressing and racking, the wines are blended and transferred to a 2100L foudre for fermentation and ageing. The wine matures on the lees right up to bottling, ensuring a rich and nuanced profile.

Matassa El Carner Rouge 2019

Understood, let's simplify and clarify the text.

El Carner, named "The Ram" in the local Catalan dialect, is a unique blend from a lieu-dit, combining Macabeo with Grenache Gris, a less common, pinkish-grey mutation of the Grenache grape. These grapes come from ancient vines, over 110 years old, deeply rooted in a mix of lime, clay, and schist soil. The wine's production involves a straightforward four-week maceration, followed by pressing and ageing in clay anfora.

Matassa french disko cinsault 2021

This new cuvée from Tom showcases Cinsault from young vines planted in limestone-rich soil. It undergoes a brief carbonic fermentation, then spends 9 months maturing in cement tanks.

Matassa Brutal Rouge 2021

Brutal Rouge represents Tom's interpretation of the 'Brutal' project/label. This particular creation melds Syrah with Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains, both meticulously sourced from 30-year-old vines flourishing in marl soil. The winemaking process is characterised by a whole-cluster approach and a succinct four-day maceration period. In a harmonious union, white and red grapes undergo co-fermentation, after which the wine is gently pressed and transferred to fiberglass tanks for fermentation and maturation, encapsulating the purity and raw expression of the vineyard's fruits.

What is 'Brutal'? Brutal wines are a captivating manifestation of unbridled winemaking, born from a movement that values authenticity and experimentation. The term 'Brutal' doesn't reference the taste but rather the approach: these wines are created without rules or restrictions, allowing winemakers the freedom to express the raw character of the grape and the terroir. Originating as a whimsical project among friends in the natural wine community, the Brutal label has become a symbol of radical, unfiltered creativity. Each bottle is unique, often produced in extremely limited quantities, and is the result of a winemaker's desire to craft something unfettered by conventional winemaking norms.

The ethos of Brutal wines is to present the wine 'as is', often with minimal intervention -- no additives, no fining, no filtration, and no added sulphites. This approach can lead to wildly diverse outcomes, from profoundly complex and challenging to beautifully pure and simple. The labels are as distinctive as the wines themselves, often featuring eclectic, original artwork that reflects the rebellious spirit of the movement. For enthusiasts seeking the unconventional, Brutal wines offer an exploration into the raw and often untamed landscape of natural wine, where each sip tells a story of freedom, audacity, and the uncharted territories of taste and texture. Sometimes, the stories are disgusting, though.

Matassa Cuvée Romanissa 2021

This wine is a 100% expression of Grenache, specifically its mutation, Lledoner Pelut, sourced from the Romanissa single vineyard. The vines, over 40 years old, thrive in schist soil. The production process is straightforward: after a whole-cluster, four-day maceration in fiberglass, the wine is pressed and then moved to demi-muids for fermentation and aging.

Henriques & Henriques Boal Single Harvest 2000

Raw scores

Resources

• Domaine Matassa. Chateau Monty.
• Matassa. Louis/Dressner.
• https://bertecordini.it/
• https://italianwinecentral.com/