The Master Francis Egly by Volodymyr Antonov
Fresh releases by The Master Francis Egly.
By Boris · Hosted by Volodymyr Antonov
In the world of wine appreciation, it's the wine itself and the ensuing conversation that truly matter. While stories and philosophies can be enriching, they pale in comparison when the wine itself is mediocre. However, in the case of Francis Egly, the narrative is different. Here's a winemaker who prefers to let the eloquence of his wines speak for themselves, proving that sometimes the most profound tales are those told in silence, through the medium of meticulous craftsmanship1.
The Champagne region has traditionally been dominated by the Grandes Marques2, who focused on brand consistency, often overshadowing the unique expression of terroir. These large houses blended grapes from various vineyards to achieve a uniform style year after year. However, the 1980s marked a turning point when a few growers, including Egly, chose to diverge from this path. His 'Franz Ferdinand' moment could be seen as a gradual realization and growing dissatisfaction with the status quo, where the unique qualities of his vineyards were not being fully expressed in the wines that were produced by the large houses. This led him to take control of the entire process, from grape growing to winemaking, ensuring that the wines he produced were a true reflection of his vineyard's potential. Together with a few other visionaries like Anselme Selosse, he initiated what would later be known as the small grower's revolution, reshaping the landscape of Champagne production.
The vineyards of Egly-Ouriet, predominantly nestled in the esteemed Grand Cru villages of Ambonnay, Verzenay, and Bouzy, are a testament to Francis's devotion to terroir expression. Dominated by Pinot Noir with a significant presence of Chardonnay, the vines, with an average age of around 45 years, are deeply rooted in the chalky soils. This mature vineyard composition is integral to Egly's philosophy, drawing out a rich narrative of complexity and depth from each vine.
Francis's commitment to excellence is further exemplified in his unconventional approach to harvesting. He often begins when others in the region have finished, allowing the grapes to achieve optimal ripeness. This practice, though risky due to the potential of overripening, is feasible on his 16 hectares and results in a distinctive concentration, complexity, and vinous quality in his wines.
In the winery, Egly's approach is both traditional and innovative. He uses indigenous yeasts to initiate fermentation and gravity to move the wine to used French oak barrels for maturation. The use of Burgundian barrels, which he sources from his friend Dominique Laurent, was not a common practice in Champagne when Francis started doing it. After maturation, the wines are bottled for the second fermentation, and they spend a minimum of 36 months on lees. For certain cuvées, this ageing can extend to over a hundred months.
Egly's unwavering commitment to excellence is the essence of Egly-Ouriet, rooted not just in the terroir of Ambonnay but also in his relentless pursuit of perfection. His wines are not merely bubbly beverages; they are narratives of passion, precision, and patience, each glass a silent yet eloquent representation of the winemaker's craft.
While the mystery of the winemaker adds a layer of intrigue, it's the wine that truly captivates. Francis Egly's reticence is eloquently compensated by the expressive and complex character of his wines. In a world where stories often overshadow substance, Egly-Ouriet's offerings stand as a testament to the fact that sometimes the most profound stories are those unspoken, savoured in the quiet complexity of a well-crafted glass. This is the essence that makes our wine-tasting event not just an event, but a symphony of exquisite expressions, a silent symphony in a glass.
Egly-Ouriet Les Prémices (d2023) NV
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Join to read it and the restEgly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Bisseuil 1er Cru (d2023) NV
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Join to read it and the restEgly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny 1er Cru (d2023) NV
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Join to read it and the restEgly-Ouriet Rosé Grand Cru (d2023) NV
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Join to read it and the restEgly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru 2014
The wine offers an opulent bouquet of honeycomb, ripe fruits, and salted peanuts. As it continues to open up with time, it reveals even more complexity, showcasing spices, cider, freshly baked bread, cherry plum, and a hint of jam. It's a truly charming and inviting bouquet.
On the palate, the wine doesn't disappoint. It's incredibly concentrated, vinous, racy, deep, and impressively complex with multiple layers of flavors. The purity and focus of this wine are exceptional, making it a standout choice. The finish is long and leaves a delightful salty sensation with a subtle smoky touch.
Given its current state, it's evident that this wine has excellent aging potential. Tasting it again in a few years would likely reveal even more of its remarkable qualities, making it a highly anticipated experience.
Egly-Ouriet Les Crayères Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru (d2023) NV
The wine's bouquet is not only generous but also beautifully complete and integral, making it a challenge to pinpoint specific descriptors. Nevertheless, I managed to discern some notable notes, including praline, honey, pastila, white bread, white currant, and white flowers.
Despite its inherent power, the wine retains an elegant and somewhat soft character with a pillow-like mousse. Its complexity is truly remarkable, offering multiple layers of flavor that delve deep into the palate. The balance is impeccable, and the aftertaste is exceptionally long and continues to evolve over time. Flavors reminiscent of bruised apples, baked apples with honey, apple candy, lemon candy, and a hint of Jerez grace the palate.
This wine is nothing short of incredible, and what's even more remarkable is that, despite its sophisticated nature, it remains approachable and irresistibly delicious.
Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Champenois Cuvée des Grands Côtés Vielles Vignes Grand Cru Ambonnay Rouge 2017
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Join to read it and the restResources
- Egly-Ouriet. Skurnik.
- Domaine Egly-Ouriet. North Berkeley Imports.
- France, Champagne: Egly-Ouriet, 1975-2011. William Kelley.
Raw scores
Footnotes
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This topic was also raised in Rosso Oslavia, when we discussed Radikon and Dario Prinčič. ↩
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This topic was discussed in more details as part of Small Growers: 45 years past the revolution. Unfortunately, we were too tired to open a magnum of Brut Grand Cru 2006, which waited us patiently till La Grande Années. ↩