Somma Papà... 2020
- Region
- Moldova » Valul lui Traian
- Type
- red still, dry
- Producer
- Vintage
- 2020
- Grapes
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- Alcohol
- 13
- Volume
- 750 mL
- Cellar
- 1 bottles
Label says 2021, bottle holds 2020 - classic regulation bollocks. These old vines are history now, uprooted after the 2021 vintage. The problem? Planted too sparsely, so the roots never bothered diving deep - just sprawled around in the topsoil like lazy teenagers. A memorial bottling for the Sîrba brothers' father, which makes the vineyard's fate particularly bitter.
Ratings
Same notes as before. Beautiful wine that's even more gorgeous when shared with the winemakers. The kind of experience that reminds you wine is about people, not just what's in the glass. P.S. Turns out it's actually 2020 despite the label. Hehe.
Same tasting notes—but this time I was pouring it blind, and no one even got close to guessing Moldova or Cabernet Sauvignon. The guesses leaned toward Baden, Austria, and other old-world regions. That said, everyone genuinely enjoyed it, so I'm calling it a win. Always nice when a bottle surprises in the right way.
Eugene Sîrbu shared this bottle with me, and I was genuinely impressed. The grapes come from vineyards in Ciumai (Valul lui Traian). He uses old 225L barrels - cleaned and re-toasted. To soften the impact of the toast, the barrels are filled with water for about two weeks, changing it frequently to keep it fresh. The result is a remarkably subtle barrel influence.
The grapes are gently pressed - no crusher - allowing for a more delicate extraction. Minimal sulphur, spontaneous malolactic, mostly wild yeast (with just a small addition of cultured strains).
The result is fantastic. It has nothing in common with what you'd expect from Cabernet Sauvignon - but that's not a problem. In fact, it's part of what makes this wine so unique and compelling. Loads of red fruit, hints of dried red flowers, a touch of spice - the oak is beautifully integrated. The nose is elegant and inviting.
On the palate, it's delicate, with soft, subtle tannins. The acidity is moderate - just on the edge of what this kind of body needs - but it works. Juicy, flavourful, with a long finish and restrained minerality.
A truly fascinating wine, especially considering where it comes from. I only brought home one bottle, but I'll definitely try to get more - this kind of beauty deserves to be shared.
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