Sospiri Brut Pas Operé

The 2011 translated forward by another vintage and another year on lees. Pretty much the same wine, but pulled deeper into oxidative territory - more mushroom, more cellar-floor, more of that aged-Champagne register. Baked apples, buckwheat honey, Jerez, fresh buckwheat bread, the signature pickle-and-mushroom thread that makes Sospiri Sospiri. Stylish, delicious, voluminous, properly long. The VA touch holds everything together on the finish. Cà del Vént keeps doing what they do - and does it well.