Laherte Frères

Laherte Frères is a family estate dating to 1889 in Chavot-Courcourt, south of Épernay on the border of the Côtes des Blancs and the Vallée de la Marne. Now run by Aurélien Laherte, the seventh generation, who took over around 2005 and rapidly transformed the domaine's reputation from solid-and-local to one of Champagne's most sought-after grower names.

Around eleven hectares across seventy-five-plus parcels in Chavot-Courcourt, Épernay, Vauciennes, Le Breuil, and Mardeuil. The diversity of terroirs - Côtes des Blancs chalk alongside heavier Marne valley clay - allows Aurélien to work with all three Champagne grapes, but the estate's identity is built on old-vine Meunier. The Les Vignes d'Autrefois parcel was planted between 1947 and 1953 and produces a Champagne that has done more than almost any other to demonstrate that Meunier is a serious variety capable of depth, age, and complexity.

Organic farming since around 2010 (the certification history is complicated - it was lost in 2016 after a difficult mildew year required fungicide treatment, then re-obtained), with biodynamic practices in the vineyard. In the cellar: indigenous yeast fermentation, partial aging in older Burgundy barrels, selective malolactic, minimal dosage. Aurélien prioritises texture and terroir transparency over power.

The cuvées:

• Ultradition - the NV calling card, a multi-vintage blend of all three grapes. Reliable, consistent, often the entry point.
• Les Vignes d'Autrefois - 100% old-vine Meunier from vines planted between 1947 and 1953, Extra Brut. The estate's most celebrated wine.
• Empreintes - Chardonnay-dominant, from Chavot chalk
• Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature
• Blanc de Noirs
• Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut
• Les Clos - lieu-dit Chardonnay

Laherte Frères belongs firmly in the serious-grower conversation today, regularly mentioned alongside Larmandier-Bernier, Cédric Bouchard, and Agrapart. Well, at least we mention them in the same sentence.