Mixed Bag Vol. 12

Lately, our wine tastings have focused heavily on specific winemakers. Whether it's a bout of laziness on my part or some astrological influence, it's time to break this trend. Or at the very least, to balance it out with our usual eclectic selection.

True to the spirit of our Mixed Bag theme, this event revolved around people and a few noteworthy bottles. Upon closer inspection, you'll notice that the youngest wine in our lineup is already 8 years old---not too shabby! I couldn't resist including a Bordeaux blend from Moldova alongside these illustrious (no pun intended) bottles. And the Taurasi, which I've been itching to open since 2022, finally got its moment!

R. López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Blanco Crianza 2015

You never get tired of this wine. Perhaps because it's brought in such small quantities that it never has the chance to become tiresome. Opening a bottle of Gravonia, especially in good company, is always a celebration. And how better to start a wonderful tasting than with such a wine?

If you're interested in learning more about the winery, we have a dedicated article for you.

Viña Gravonia is 100% Viura from 24 ha plots at 340 meters above sea level in the Gravonia vineyard near the banks of the river Ebro. Historically these wines were called Viña Zaconia. The average age of vines is 45 years. The whole plot is planted only with Viura grapes.

Château Musar Blanc 2011

Despite its legendary status, we hadn't yet sampled Château Musar at our tastings. Luckily, Lebanon is known to me not only for its tumultuous history but also for being home to this exceptional winery. Château Musar, renowned for its unique wines that age exceptionally well, often releases its bottles late, similar to R. López de Heredia. Their white wines, made from indigenous Obaideh and Merwah grapes, are particularly intriguing.

The vineyards, located at high altitudes on chalky and calcareous soils, yield very low quantities. Château Musar White is fermented in French oak barriques for 9 months, blended and bottled at the end of the first year, and released seven years after the harvest.

Fáutor Illustro Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2016

Naturally, we included a wine from Moldova. Despite living in Ukraine for years, I sometimes miss my homeland. Given the ongoing war, I find comfort in these familiar flavours. Thankfully, my family and friends occasionally send me delicacies and wines. It's reminiscent of Anton Ego's experience in "Ratatouille," though in this case, it's wine that brings me back.

Fáutor Winery, founded in the late 20th century, has vineyards located in Tigheci (IGP Valul lui Traian) in the southwestern part of Moldova, covering about 350 hectares. The name "Fáutor" means "creator" or "author" in Latin. Illustro, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot from vineyards in Romanești village is aged for 12 months in new French oak barrels.

Domaine La Madura Grand Vin Saint-Chinian 2005

Nadia and Cyril Bourgne relocated from Bordeaux to Saint-Chinian in 1999, believing in the potential of this mountainous region in western Languedoc. The area's schist soils, originating from ancient clay sediments, provide excellent drainage and support vine health. The 2005 Grand Vin Saint-Chinian, a blend of Mourvèdre (34%), Syrah (42%), Grenache (14%), and Carignan (10%), is hand-harvested, traditionally vinified, and matured in barrels on fine lees. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Château Moulin Pey-Labrie Canon Fronsac 1999

Just a few kilometres from Pomerol, on the limestone hills above the Dordogne River in Bordeaux's left bank, lie the 9.75 hectares (citation needed) of vineyards owned by Grégoire and Bénédicte Hubau. Canon Fronsac, part of the broader Fronsac appellation, is notable yet often underrated. The higher limestone content and elevation contribute to the region's reputation for producing prestigious wines less affected by heat.

The 1999 Château Moulin Pey-Labrie Canon Fronsac is 100% Merlot, hand-harvested and destemmed. After fermentation, it is aged in barrels for 18 months, with 20,000 bottles produced that year.

Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi 2000

Feudi di San Gregorio, established in 1986, has been instrumental in reviving the ancient wine traditions of Irpinia, a historic region in the Campanian Apennines. Despite its substantial 300 hectares spread over 700 plots, the winery has managed to maintain quality. Antonio Capaldo, the current president, along with head of production Pierpaolo Sirch, created FeudiStudi, a research lab focused on the detailed study of their 700 plots. This initiative not only results in highly niche wines (produced in extremely limited quantities) but also in publications that promote the region and inspire young winemakers.

Taurasi, a village in the Avellino province, lends its name to the first DOCG wine of southern Italy, made exclusively from the Aglianico grape. Often referred to as the "Barolo of the South," Aglianico is known for its thick skins, high acidity, and robust tannins, making it ideal for ageing. The 2000 Taurasi by Feudi di San Gregorio, composed of 100% Aglianico, was aged for about 18 months in medium-toasted French barriques and then spent an additional 18 months in the bottle before release.

Barbeito Madeira Malvasia Single Cask 83 B+C 2005

We concluded the evening with an aromatic, sweet Madeira from Vinhos Barbeito, established in 1946 by Mário Barbeito de Vasconcelos. Madeira is often non-vintage, but some producers, like Barbeito, experiment with Colheita or Single Harvest wines. This particular bottle, a 100% Malvasia from São Jorge, was pressed and aged in smaller-than-usual barrels, first in Warehouse B and then moved to Warehouse C after four years. In August 2019, 632 units were bottled, each individually numbered. Our bottle was number 537---a fitting end to a delightful evening.

Resources

• FEUDISTUDI; De Cristofaro, Paolo (2024). Volume I | Taurasi and Irpinia Campi Taurasini: FEUDISTUDI: Irpinia's Vineyards and Wines. 2023 Edition. Feudi di San Gregorio. Kindle Edition.
• Feudi di San Grigio.
• Fautor Illustro Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot 2016. Vin cu Vin.
• Fautor.
• Robinson, J., & Johnson, H. (n.d.). The World Atlas of Wine 8th Edition. Mitchell Beazley.
• Barbeito.
• Château Musar.

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