Barberry Garden

A wine corner in a crazy world


Gravner Vertykalnyj




Boris Buliga

A small vertical tasting of Ribolla with a 20-year-old Breg as a bonus.

I love how a simple suggestion to taste two Gravner wines can transform into a small vertical tasting of his flagship wines, complemented by a 20-year-old Breg Bianco. This setup was perfect – a few selections, and a few participants, ensuring everyone had enough space and wine. Exceptional wines like these deserve our full attention.

Regardless of how one feels about Joško Gravner, his role in the wine world, particularly in the realm of macerated white wines, cannot be overstated. Starting with a conventional approach that earned him acclaim, Gravner became disillusioned with his prospects, especially after visiting the US, a hub of conventional winemaking. He began seeking new paths, and as it often happens, all roads led him back home, where his ancestors had macerated white wines. His journey also took him to Georgia, a country just recovering from soviet influence but boasting an 8,000-year-old tradition of winemaking that even the communist regime couldn't completely destroy.

Everything converged simultaneously. In 1996, a hailstorm destroyed nearly his entire crop. With no wine to release, Gravner methodically experimented with maceration, gaining the confidence to produce a macerated wine for the market the following year. Unsurprisingly, it wasn't well-received by consumers accustomed to a different style. But by 2000, Gravner was unstoppable – he even imported two qvevri from Georgia (nine didn't survive the journey due to transportation challenges). From there, it was a continuous quest to refine his style and master his craft. According to "Amber Revolution," Joško Gravner is a tough individual. This period was challenging for him not only professionally but also personally. He cut ties with former friends and colleagues and retreated into his own world, where he created rich, aged, and arguably the best macerated white wines in the world. Our task was simple – to immerse ourselves in this world, even if only for a few hours.

🏅 6th4.05090.00690
520 UAH
🥉 3rd4.29310.01940
4,400 UAH
🏅 5th4.22760.00920
4,500 UAH
🥇 1st4.43450.03693
4,500 UAH
🥈 2nd4.42410.03234
4,500 UAH
🏅 4th4.23330.04980
4,500 UAH

I extend my gratitude to Serhii, Maksym, and Andrii for providing the bottles; and to Garage and Mirali for hosting us and providing a delicious accompaniment to our evening!

P.S. Read more about Joško Gravner on a dedicated page.

Raw scores

WineAndrii SSerhii KMax DViktoriya ZhBoris BElvira KOleksandr BSerhii B