Jacky Blot Uncorked

It takes significant willpower and discipline to resist the urge to immediately open the latest releases from Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups. My modest attempts to save some bottles for later, coupled with a few well-connected friends in Europe, afford us the opportunity to enjoy a variety of vintages, all crafted by the maestro before his passing.

Unlike the grand narrative of the Biblical "Genesis," the origins of Jacky Blot's winery are more humble. Before his foray into viticulture, Jacky was a professional paratrooper, later transitioning into wine sales. It was this stint that ignited his passion for Burgundy wines, celebrated for their focus on individual vineyards. This passion led him to become a winemaker himself, eventually settling in Montlouis-sur-Loire, a less renowned but charming counterpart to Vouvray, located just across the river. Jean-Philippe humorously notes that his father chose Montlouis not only for its potential but also because the land was more affordable compared to the prestigious and costly Vouvray.

This geographical proximity is crucial for understanding the dynamic between the two regions. Divided by the river Loire, Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire are key locations for Chenin Blanc. Traditionally, Vouvray has been the more famous of the two, often praised in literature for its sweet wines. Montlouis, with less extensive vineyards, only gained its independent appellation status in 1937. A 2013 legislation that restricted the use of the Vouvray label to wines made from locally grown grapes within the region forced some producers to label their bottles simply as Vin de France---a twist that is both humorous and frustrating.

While Vouvray remains largely traditional, Montlouis has been the birthplace of new innovators like Jacky Blot and François Chidaine, who took a different approach to winemaking. They chose to produce dry wines, focused on expressing the terroir through single-vineyard productions, and immediately adopted organic practices.

Jacky Blot's acquisition of the winery from Prudhomme in 1989 marked the beginning of a new era in the region. His early vintages presented significant challenges: 1989 and 1990 were years of very ripe harvests, ideal for sweet wines, while 1991 experienced a severe frost with no production. The 1992 vintage was complicated, with an excessive yield of underripe grapes, and 1993 continued the trend of difficult years. In 1993, facing adversity, Jacky contemplated abandoning winemaking. Instead, he decided to experiment, making his first dry white wine, which initially did not gain popularity but later found acceptance. He also pioneered his first pet-nat, Triple Zero, questioning whether it was possible to create a sparkling wine without added sugar, chaptalisation, or dosage, while still maintaining sufficient freshness.

Thus began the story of Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups. The idea behind this tasting might initially appear unremarkable. Although I am not extensively experienced with Chenin Blanc or the Loire Valley, the wines from this domaine are considered among the finest globally, especially given their value. Their charm is immediate, capturing the hearts of many from the first sip, which makes the idea of gathering to appreciate these wines both deeply appealing and somewhat ordinary.

We recently received the 2022 vintages. While we could open these bottles now, I see little point in sampling such young wines prematurely (although people did convince me to open one as a welcoming drink). To enhance our experience, I've included his legendary sparkling wine, a rare red, a sweet wine, and a mini-vertical tasting from Montlouis and Vouvray, where the youngest is from the 2021 release. There is much to discuss and savour.

Wine		WAVG	SD		Price	QPR
Triple ZéroNV Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups	#7	3.93	0.10	–	2,016 ₴	0.63
Montlouis sur Loire Les Hauts de Husseau2021 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups	🥉	4.34	0.13	2	1,619 ₴	1.66
Montlouis sur Loire Les Hauts de Husseau2015 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups	🥈	4.35	0.19	4	2,500 ₴	1.36
Bretonniere Cuvée Parcellaire Monopole2021 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups	#4	4.24	0.18	–	1,728 ₴	1.30
Bretonniere Cuvée Parcellaire Monopole2016 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups	🥇	4.44	0.17	3	3,503 ₴	1.38
Bourgueil Mi-Pente2020 Domaine de la Butte	#6	4.11	0.11	–	2,100 ₴	0.90
Montlouis sur Loire Romulus2020 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups	#5	4.19	0.25	–	3,570 ₴	0.81