Frank Cornelissen by Ivan Omelchenko
A rare opportunity to taste a range of wines by a meticulous winemaker from Etna, Sicily.
By Boris · Hosted by Ivan Omelchenko
Truth be told, Frank Cornelissen's wines and I didn't get along initially. His creations, despite their undeniable craftsmanship, were more of an academic interest to me than a drinking pleasure. They struck me as harsh, overly bold, and lacking harmony. I often likened them to pornography: undeniably a part of contemporary culture, yet hardly what I'd choose for genuine enjoyment amidst a world of authentic experiences that don't leave me feeling empty.
But life, much like wine, is about growth and transformation. And I'm all for keeping an open mind. So, when the opportunity arose to speak with Frank himself and later join a tasting organized by Ivan, my curiosity got the better of me. My palate is ever-evolving, or so I like to believe, making this a perfect chance to revisit these iconic wines with fresh eyes -- and taste buds.
There's something profoundly different about sipping a wine when you've connected with the winemaker behind it. Frank didn't bombard us with the technical minutiae of his craft or a chronological recount of his journey. Instead, he offered insights into his philosophy and values, enriching the tasting experience by adding layers of meaning to each glass. It was no longer just about the wine but understanding and appreciating the person behind the label.
A heartfelt thank you to Mikhail Stefanyuk for making the introduction, Ivan Omelchenko for orchestrating the tasting, Mirali and Garage for hosting us, and of course, Frank, for turning what could have been just another wine tasting into a memorable journey.
| Wine | WAVG | SD | Price | QPR | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Susucaru2022 Frank Cornelissen | #10 | 3.92 | 0.09 | – | 890 ₴ | 0.93 |
 Munjebel2021 Frank Cornelissen | #9 | 3.95 | 0.12 | 1 | 1,350 ₴ | 0.80 |
 Munjebel FM2020 Frank Cornelissen | #6 | 4.06 | 0.16 | 1 | 2,490 ₴ | 0.74 |
 Munjebel VA2020 Frank Cornelissen | #8 | 4.02 | 0.13 | – | 3,300 ₴ | 0.60 |
 Munjebel MC2020 Frank Cornelissen | #7 | 4.03 | 0.11 | 1 | 2,490 ₴ | 0.70 |
 Munjebel CS2020 Frank Cornelissen | #5 | 4.09 | 0.14 | – | 3,300 ₴ | 0.69 |
 Magma2020 Frank Cornelissen | 🥈 | 4.30 | 0.20 | 5 | 14,500 ₴ | 0.51 |
 Munjebel MC2019 Frank Cornelissen | 🥉 | 4.18 | 0.19 | – | 2,650 ₴ | 0.92 |
 Magma2017 Frank Cornelissen | 🥇 | 4.35 | 0.24 | – | 15,900 ₴ | 0.53 |
 Sucette2017 An Approach To Relaxation | 🥉 | 4.18 | 0.23 | – | 2,590 ₴ | 0.92 |
Frank Cornelissen
Frank Cornelissen's journey into the world of winemaking is a tale of passion, innovation, and a deep respect for nature. Originating from Belgium, where he was surrounded by fine wines, Cornelissen embarked on a path less travelled, setting his sights on the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily. In 2001, he established his vineyard in a region then little known among wine connoisseurs, driven by a belief in the land's untapped potential to produce wines of remarkable complexity and distinction.
Cornelissen's approach to farming and winemaking diverges from conventional methods, including biodynamic practices, which he consciously opts out of. His philosophy is rooted in a purist, almost radical (in a good way), interpretation of natural winemaking. He focuses on minimal intervention, allowing the vineyard's unique terroir and the inherent qualities of the grape varieties to express themselves freely. This means eschewing additives and cultivated yeasts in favour of indigenous ones, and avoiding the use of barrels to ensure the purest expression of the vineyard's character.
At the heart of Cornelissen's winemaking philosophy is the belief that wine is a cultural artefact -- a narrative of its environment, the climate, and the human touch that guides its creation. This perspective drives his meticulous attention to detail in every aspect of the winemaking process, from the careful selection of vineyard sites to the thoughtful handling of the wine at every stage of its development.
Cornelissen's wines are a reflection of his commitment to authenticity and excellence. They challenge conventional tastes and invite enthusiasts to explore the deeper, more nuanced layers of wine's relationship with its origins. Through his innovative practices and philosophical approach, Frank Cornelissen has not only redefined winemaking in the Etna region but has also contributed to the broader conversation about sustainability and authenticity in the world of wine.
Frank Cornelissen Susucaru 2022
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
Most of the wines made by Frank Cornelissen follow a simple logic of "one vineyard - one wine". But Susucaru, being an entry-level wine, is a field blend of mostly Nerello Mascalese (85%) with other local varietals like Nerello Capuccio, Allicante Boushet, Minnella and Uva Francesa. The grapes are sourced from all vineyards: Picciolo, Malpasso, Campo Re, Crasà, Piano Daini and Feudo di Mezzo. The idea here is to produce a 'generic' image of Etna Rosso.
All the grapes are destemmed and crushed lightly before the "pied-de-cuve" fermentation using only indigenous yeasts and skin contact for about 30 days. The wine is then aged in neutral epoxy tanks from 2500 to 7000 litres.
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel 2021
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
Munjebel "classico" is one more estate wine, made solely from Nerello Mascalese grapes sourced from various vineyards. Some of these vineyards are the best parcels where Frank produces cru wines such as Zottorinoto-Chiusa Spagnolo, Feudo di Mezzo-sottana and Porcaria. Other vineyards are specifically designated for this particular wine, such as Rampante sottana, Piano Daini and Crasà. Frank aims to create an interpretation of traditional, well-balanced and rich Northern Valley Etna wine with Munjebel "classico".
The grapes used in the wine come from vines that are 50+ years old on average. The grapes are destemmed, crushed lightly and then fermented using only indigenous yeasts with skin contact for approximately 50 days. The wine is then aged for around 12 months in neutral epoxy tanks ranging from 2500 to 7000 litres in size.
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel FM 2020
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
Frank has decided to make two different wines from the vast Feudo di Mezzo contrada by separating the bottom (sottana) and the upper part (soprana or Porcaria). The Munjebel FM is crafted using the bottom part, which produces a refined wine similar to those from Burgundy.
This wine is made entirely from Nerello Mascalese grapes sourced from vines that are on average 40+ years old and situated at an altitude of 580 meters above sea level. The grapes are destemmed, then lightly crushed and fermented using only indigenous yeasts, with skin contact for around 50 days. Subsequently, the wine is aged for 18 months in neutral epoxy tanks ranging from 1500 to 2500 litres in size.
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel VA 2020
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
Munjebel VA, also known as "cuvée Vigne Alte" or high vines, is considered the "grand cru" of the estate. The grapes for this wine are sourced from the highest vineyards owned by Frank, which are Tartaraci (1000 masl), Rampante soprana (870 masl), and Barbabecchi (910 masl). The vines used for this wine are ungrafted and are 90+ years old on average. First, the grapes are destemmed, then lightly crushed and fermented using only indigenous yeasts, with skin contact for around 60 days. After that, the wine is aged for 18 months in neutral epoxy tanks ranging from 1500 to 2500 litres in size.
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel MC 2020
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
Munjebel MC is named after the Monte Colla contrada. The vineyard, which is terraced and extremely steep, is located 750 to 780 meters above sea level and was planted in 1946. Wines produced from this vineyard are known for their richness and power, with Frank comparing them to Hermitage.
The grapes used to make the wine are destemmed and lightly crushed. They are then fermented using only indigenous yeasts, with skin contact for around 50 days. After fermentation, the wine is aged for 18 months in neutral epoxy tanks that range in size from 1500 to 2500 litres.
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel CS 2020
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
Munjebel CS is one of the few "grand crus" of the estate. The grapes used to make this wine come from an ungrafted vineyard located in the Chiusa Spagnolo section of contrada Zottorinoto. This unique vineyard was planted around 1925 and is situated at a lower altitude (620m. asl) surrounded by lava. The wine produced from these grapes is profound, and tannic.
The grapes are destemmed and lightly crushed before being fermented using only indigenous yeasts. The wine is then left to ferment with skin contact for approximately 50 days. Once fermentation is complete, the wine is aged for 18 months in neutral epoxy tanks of varying sizes ranging from 1500 to 2500 litres.
Frank Cornelissen Magma 2020
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
Although it's stupid to judge a book by its cover, it's hard to deny that Magma stands out on any shelf. The hand-written name in red paint contrasts nicely with the dark bottle, evoking images of an erupting volcano. One can assume that there is something special inside the bottle.
Magma is the flagship wine of the winery, made from 100% ungrafted Nerello Mascalese grapes sourced from contrada Barbabecchi, which is located between 870 and 910 meters above sea level. The vines are over 100 years old on average.
After the grapes are destemmed and lightly crushed, they are fermented using only indigenous yeasts. The wine is then left to ferment with skin contact for approximately 50 days. Once fermentation is complete, the wine is aged for 18 months in neutral epoxy tanks of varying sizes ranging from 1500 to 2500 litres.
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel MC 2019
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
This is a great opportunity to compare two different vintages of the same wine. As per the vintage report, Munjebel MC is Frank's top pick for this year. This particular vintage is more similar to Hermitage, as it has a more robust structure and offers stronger aromas of meat, smoke, and dark fruits compared to the 2020 version. Apart from the differences between the vintages, there might be another reason for such a significant contrast - a shift in style.
In any case, this is a great bonus bottle.
Frank Cornelissen Magma 2017
⚠️ The following information is based on available on Frank Cornelissen's website. It might be outdated or incomplete, as his techniques are constantly evolving.
The 2020 vintage of Magma was surprisingly elegant, with fresh and nuanced profile that even those familiar with previous vintages couldn't believe. This sparked the idea to compare it to the 2017 Magma, which was readily available (good job, Ivan). The difference in styles between the two vintages is clear.
An Approach To Relaxation Sucette 2017
This bottle is an extra we opened after tasting two different vintages of Magma. The idea is quite simple - old ungrafted vines! It's a great opportunity to enjoy something unique and experience an era long gone.
Carla and Richard Rza Betts are American citizens residing in Amsterdam and producing wine in Barossa Valley, Australia. They travel extensively, spending roughly 250 days per year on the move, which is why Amsterdam serves as their base. The reason they chose Australia is that they own one of the world's oldest Grenache vineyards. The Rza Block is situated in the heart of the sandy Vine Vale region in the eastern part of South Australia's Barossa Valley. The vineyard was established between 1860 and 1880.
The Rza Block stands out not only due to the vines' age but also because Vine Vale's soil differs significantly from the rest of Barossa's vineyards, which usually have heavier red clay soils. The fine sandy soil is a significant deposit that comes from the weathered granite and quartzite of the Barossa Ranges and Eden Valley. The sand arrives in Vine Vale via the gullies that drain out of the hills down towards the Valley floor. The sand doesn't contribute much to the wine's colour, but it contributes high-toned aromatics, which arguably is more essential.
Additionally, the same gullies bring wind, which is critical because it creates a significant diurnal shift, cooling the vineyards at night and preserving acidity and freshness. For instance, it can be 38C on a summer day, but thanks to the wind, it can drop to as low as 10C in the evening.
Sucette is a 100% Grenache wine made primarily with grapes from Rza Block. The remaining grapes come from a highly aromatic 90-year-old vineyard located a few blocks away from Rza Block.