
2016
Region
Italy › Sicily › Etna › Etna Nord › IGP Terre Siciliane
Type
red · still
Grapes
Pinot Noir
Alcohol
13%
Volume
750 mL
Sugar
1.6 g/L
Available at
Gorgeous wine - and more developed than the first time I had it. The cherry confiture and floral basket are still there, but balsamic sauce and a flicker of tapenade have entered the register, and the wine reads more elevated than before. Very feminine. Acidity sharp, freshness still crisp, juicy sway running through. Etna Pinot at ten years showing exactly what cool-climate Sicilian Pinot can become.
Cherry confiture and a floral basket, initially tainted by a touch of barnyard. But the animalistic hint is a fleeting visitor, leaving behind an alluring, almost seductive character. This is no earth-bound concoction; it's a terrestrial affair in a glass. The balance is cool and collected, acidity sharp, and freshness crisp, carrying a juicy sway. Feared a fall from grace after the (highly subjectively) stellar Pinò '13, but this '16 vintage stepped up to the plate, smashing my doubts and serving a delicious reality check. It's not just a good wine; it's a long awaited sip. Happy me, indeed.
Pinò is Gulfi's experimental Etna Pinot Noir from Vigna Militi in Randazzo, planted in under half a hectare on the volcano's northern slope at around 800 metres - the parcel shares ground with the Nerello Mascalese that becomes their Reseca. Vinification follows the house template: native ferments, no additions to speak of, ageing in neutral Slavonian wood to let the volcanic black soil speak. It is a small, deliberate outlier in a Sicilian cellar otherwise built on indigenous varieties.