
NV
Region
Italy › Lombardia › Vino
Type
white · traditional · sparkling · brut-nature
Grapes
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Alcohol
12%
Volume
750 mL
Disgorged
2023-09
On lees
30 months (2.5 years)
Available at
Oh, this is brilliant. Even better this time around - unconventional profile that's actually getting more interesting with bottle age, and it's got years ahead of it. Baked apples, honey, whisper of sea air, pumpkin spice, brioche, yellow stone fruit, toasted hazelnuts. The acidity is high and naked - almost electric - but everything's beautifully balanced. What really gets me is that spice mix in the finish: lemon, ginger, a whole cabinet of autumn spices. Rich, mineral, compelling. This is proper sparkling wine with character.
Previously called 'Ombra', this Cuvée Nature is a high-wire act performed without a net: zero dosage, zero added sulphites throughout. Spontaneous fermentation in tonneau, followed by extended lunar sabbatical in cement tanks. The result is tense, mineral, utterly distinctive. More akin to Côte des Bar than Northern Italy. Yellow fruit and brioche from extended lees contact, but there's freshness that defies the richness. Simultaneously austere and generous - like a stern teacher who secretly loves their students. Piercing acidity, chalky minerality, ginger in the aftertaste. Wonderful wine, complex and demanding.
This wine presents a pleasant and charming nose with notes of bruised apples, cider, and bread crust, which I find particularly appealing. The balance between fruit, oxidation, and salinity is noteworthy. On the palate, it is austere, sharp, and mineral, with cider-like flavors and high salinity in the finish. Tasting it for the second time in 2.5 months, I've grown to appreciate it even more today.
Perhaps it was a bit too young, considering how challenging it was. The nose presented a pleasant oxidized aroma of bruised apples and cider. However, beyond that, there wasn't much to offer. While the palate delivered good intensity, pleasing flavors, and a robust mousse, the acidity was overwhelming, making it difficult to enjoy. I always approach Gatta with an open mind, but it consistently underperforms. I might need to explore his top-tier bottles for a better experience.