Mineral, Funk, and Play
Celebrating Wine Wine's Frankivsk arrival with seven liquid ambassadors.
By Boris · Hosted by Boris Buliga
Drinking wine is brilliant - but sharing it with others? That's where the real magic happens. This has always been my consumer philosophy, and since I now spend anywhere from 20% to 50% of my time not in Kyiv but in Ivano-Frankivsk, I wasn't about to abandon my habits or outlook on life. Which means... horror of horrors... I actually have to gather people for tastings in my new city as well.
Thanks to some new connections, we've already established regular, cosy sessions - the kind where conversation flows until late and you sometimes struggle to piece together how you got home the next morning. These have become a treasured routine. But I also want to reach beyond this inner circle, to meet new people and share what I've learned about wine more broadly. There's something deeply satisfying about watching someone discover a producer they've never heard of, or seeing their face change when they taste something that shifts their perspective entirely.
Frankivsk is a fascinating case study in this regard. There appears to be a certain WineTime "monopoly" here - which makes perfect sense when you remember that this wine shop network actually began in this very city before expanding across Ukraine. Logically, they'd have deep roots and strong relationships here. Yet Ukraine's wine scene is constantly evolving, becoming more diverse and sophisticated, and I want to move with that evolution - and not only in Kyiv.
Of course, there's always the option of wine delivery services. You can order almost anything online these days. But that approach feels like gambling to me - you need to already know what you're looking for, what producers to trust, and which vintages are drinking well. It removes the human element, the discovery, the conversation that makes wine meaningful in the first place.
But then recently, a warehouse shop called Wine Wine opened a new branch here, and suddenly things got interesting. They're bringing in loads of bottles that I recognise - wines I've enjoyed at home, shared at tastings, or discovered at my favourite wine bar in Kyiv (of course, it's Lo). Seeing these familiar faces on the shelves got me thinking: why not curate a selection of affordable but genuinely exciting wines from their stock? Why not create an opportunity for local wine lovers to explore beyond their usual boundaries?
That's how this particular tasting was born. I mentioned the idea to the wonderful Kseniia, and she immediately understood the vision. She took care of all the practical details - found us the perfect location, gathered an eager group of participants, and before we knew it, we were cosily assembled around a table, ready to explore together.
Aphros Yakkos 2010
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Join to read it and the restAphros Ten 2023
Vasco Croft is one of Portugal's biodynamic pioneers, working in his vineyards since 2002 with both organic and biodynamic certifications. His family estate in the Lima sub-region produces wines that challenge every preconception about Vinho Verde - structured, age-worthy, and profoundly mineral. The man treats his vines like meditation partners, following lunar cycles and using preparations that sound more like witchcraft than winemaking.
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Giuseppe Pedrotti represents the third generation of his family working in vineyards in Valle dei Laghi, where the afternoon "Ora del Garda" breeze keeps things fresh and blissful. Organic certified with biodynamic leanings, he's particularly obsessed with Nosiola - Trentino's indigenous white that most people can't even pronounce properly. His vineyards sit between 250-320 metres elevation, catching the sun from morning to evening while that lake breeze prevents things from getting too hot and bothered.
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Franz Weninger Jr. took over the family estate in 1999 and immediately started farming biodynamically on both sides of the Austrian-Hungarian border. Demeter certified since 2006, he works with old vines (20-50+ years) that remember when borders were just lines on maps. His wines have this cross-border personality - Austrian precision meets Hungarian soul, or maybe it's the other way around.
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Join to read it and the restLe Débit d'Ivresse Goulou Goulou 2023
Luc Devot started Le Débit d'Ivresse in 2017, working organically in the villages of Montner and Latour-de-France. The domaine name translates to "The Flow of Drunkenness" - which tells you everything about his philosophy. This is joyful juice, not serious wine. He makes wine like punk rockers make music: raw, honest, and utterly alive.
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Xavier Weisskopf runs Le Rocher des Violettes in Montlouis-sur-Loire, crafting wines that make Loire Cabernet Franc sing opera instead of folk songs. Certified organic since 2009, he works with 40-year-old vines rooted in clay limestone over tuffeau bedrock. His approach is patient - very patient. Think monastic patience. The kind of patience that makes other winemakers check their watches nervously.
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Join to read it and the restNicola Gatta Cuvée Nature d2023-09 CN3 NV
Third-generation winemaker Nicola Gatta deliberately declassifies his sparkling wines from Franciacorta DOCG because rules are for people who lack imagination. Working 5.5 hectares at 400m elevation in Gussago, he follows biodynamic principles with the conviction of a true believer. His "moon cycle" ageing isn't poetry - it's literal. This wine spent 30 moons (about 2.5 years) on lees, because why use boring solar measurements when lunar ones sound cooler?
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