Mineral, Funk, and Play

Drinking wine is brilliant -- but sharing it with others? That's where the real magic happens. This has always been my consumer philosophy, and since I now spend anywhere from 20% to 50% of my time not in Kyiv but in Ivano-Frankivsk, I wasn't about to abandon my habits or outlook on life. Which means... horror of horrors... I actually have to gather people for tastings in my new city as well.

Thanks to some new connections, we've already established regular, cosy sessions -- the kind where conversation flows until late and you sometimes struggle to piece together how you got home the next morning. These have become a treasured routine. But I also want to reach beyond this inner circle, to meet new people and share what I've learned about wine more broadly. There's something deeply satisfying about watching someone discover a producer they've never heard of, or seeing their face change when they taste something that shifts their perspective entirely.

Frankivsk is a fascinating case study in this regard. There appears to be a certain WineTime "monopoly" here -- which makes perfect sense when you remember that this wine shop network actually began in this very city before expanding across Ukraine. Logically, they'd have deep roots and strong relationships here. Yet Ukraine's wine scene is constantly evolving, becoming more diverse and sophisticated, and I want to move with that evolution -- and not only in Kyiv.

Of course, there's always the option of wine delivery services. You can order almost anything online these days. But that approach feels like gambling to me -- you need to already know what you're looking for, what producers to trust, and which vintages are drinking well. It removes the human element, the discovery, the conversation that makes wine meaningful in the first place.

But then recently, a warehouse shop called Wine Wine opened a new branch here, and suddenly things got interesting. They're bringing in loads of bottles that I recognise -- wines I've enjoyed at home, shared at tastings, or discovered at my favourite wine bar in Kyiv (of course, it's Lo). Seeing these familiar faces on the shelves got me thinking: why not curate a selection of affordable but genuinely exciting wines from their stock? Why not create an opportunity for local wine lovers to explore beyond their usual boundaries?

That's how this particular tasting was born. I mentioned the idea to the wonderful Kseniia, and she immediately understood the vision. She took care of all the practical details -- found us the perfect location, gathered an eager group of participants, and before we knew it, we were cosily assembled around a table, ready to explore together.

Aphros Yakkos 2010

Mineral backbone with sharp bones on full display - dark and red berries throughout. Very thin, punchy. Not easy to drink. Lacks a bit of structure for my taste, but it's undeniably beautiful wine. Just not my cup of tea.

Aphros Ten 2023

Vasco Croft is one of Portugal's biodynamic pioneers, working in his vineyards since 2002 with both organic and biodynamic certifications. His family estate in the Lima sub-region produces wines that challenge every preconception about Vinho Verde -- structured, age-worthy, and profoundly mineral. The man treats his vines like meditation partners, following lunar cycles and using preparations that sound more like witchcraft than winemaking.

The 'Ten' takes its name from fermenting to ten degrees of alcohol, with 5g/L residual sugar providing perfect balance. Indigenous yeasts work their magic at cool temperatures, followed by two months on lees without bâtonnage. It's Vinho Verde stripped of its fizzy party dress and dressed in silk pyjamas instead. Delicate tangerine and lime zest dance with crystalline minerality. That touch of sweetness doesn't make it cloying -- it makes it dangerously crushable. Like drinking liquid sunshine through a prism.

Gino Pedrotti l'Aura Bianco 2021

Giuseppe Pedrotti represents the third generation of his family working in vineyards in Valle dei Laghi, where the afternoon "Ora del Garda" breeze keeps things fresh and blissful. Organic certified with biodynamic leanings, he's particularly obsessed with Nosiola -- Trentino's indigenous white that most people can't even pronounce properly. His vineyards sit between 250-320 metres elevation, catching the sun from morning to evening while that lake breeze prevents things from getting too hot and bothered.

L'Aura marries local hero Nosiola with international playboy Chardonnay, spending ~13 months in used wood plus ~5 months in bottle to settle down. It's like watching a successful cross-cultural relationship - each variety brings its best qualities without losing identity. Nosiola provides countryside freshness and mineral backbone, while Chardonnay adds body. Neither dominates; they coexist like they've been partners for years. Nutella, yellow fruits, honey, melon, citrus oil. Delicious and serious wine.

Weninger Franz Plays Szürke & Fehér & Kék MMXXIII NV

Franz Weninger Jr. took over the family estate in 1999 and immediately started farming biodynamically on both sides of the Austrian-Hungarian border. Demeter certified since 2006, he works with old vines (20-50+ years) that remember when borders were just lines on maps. His wines have this cross-border personality -- Austrian precision meets Hungarian soul, or maybe it's the other way around.

Franz Plays is what happens when ordering mistakes become happy accidents. They ordered Pinot Noir for their Frettner vineyard in 1999 but received half Pinot Blanc and 10% Pinot Gris instead. Rather than complain, they created this Pinot family reunion: Blanc and Gris skins ferment with direct-pressed Noir juice. The result sits somewhere between orange and rosé, with gentle tannins that grip without biting. It's got a slight natural fizz that makes you wonder if the wine is winking at you. Playful indeed. Easy going, simple and not demanding. Just take a glass and enjoy life regardless of hardships.

Le Débit d'Ivresse Goulou Goulou 2023

Luc Devot started Le Débit d'Ivresse in 2017, working organically in the villages of Montner and Latour-de-France. The domaine name translates to "The Flow of Drunkenness" -- which tells you everything about his philosophy. This is joyful juice, not serious wine. He makes wine like punk rockers make music: raw, honest, and utterly alive.

This carbonic Syrah delivers exactly what the name promises. Juicy blackberry and violets with that carbonic bounce - it's Syrah doing its best Beaujolais impression and nailing it. Serve it chilled and watch it disappear. This is what natural wine should be when it stops trying to impress wine critics and remembers to have fun. And sometimes, wine is all about having fun rather than seeking depth or complexity.

Le Rocher des Violettes Cabernet Franc 2018

Xavier Weisskopf runs Le Rocher des Violettes in Montlouis-sur-Loire, crafting wines that make Loire Cabernet Franc sing opera instead of folk songs. Certified organic since 2009, he works with 40-year-old vines rooted in clay limestone over tuffeau bedrock. His approach is patient -- very patient. Think monastic patience. The kind of patience that makes other winemakers check their watches nervously.

Perfumed. Graphite and tobacco leaf meet dark berries and that signature Loire herbaceousness. It's simultaneously rustic and refined, like a philosophy professor who grows his own vegetables. The tannins have backbone without brutality, and the finish keeps going like a good conversation. Beautiful wine that's so charged it's a slight challenge to drink today. But luckily, the fruit makes it quite charming.

Nicola Gatta Cuvée Nature d2023-09 CN3 NV

Third-generation winemaker Nicola Gatta deliberately declassifies his sparkling wines from Franciacorta DOCG because rules are for people who lack imagination. Working 5.5 hectares at 400m elevation in Gussago, he follows biodynamic principles with the conviction of a true believer. His "moon cycle" ageing isn't poetry -- it's literal. This wine spent 30 moons (about 2.5 years) on lees, because why use boring solar measurements when lunar ones sound cooler?

Previously called 'Ombra', this Cuvée Nature is a high-wire act performed without a net: zero dosage, zero added sulphites throughout. Spontaneous fermentation in tonneau, followed by extended lunar sabbatical in cement tanks. The result is tense, mineral, utterly distinctive. More akin to Côte des Bar than Northern Italy. Yellow fruit and brioche from extended lees contact, but there's freshness that defies the richness. Simultaneously austere and generous - like a stern teacher who secretly loves their students. Piercing acidity, chalky minerality, ginger in the aftertaste. Wonderful wine, complex and demanding.

Raw scores