Gatta by Alessio
A journey through unique offerings.
By Boris · Hosted by Alessio Alexeev
With my limited and rather basic experience of Nicola Gatta's wines, I approached them more as a sceptic than an enthusiast. That's why, when I missed last year's tasting of his top selections, I didn't feel much regret---after all, you can't drink every wine. So, when I agreed to this year's tasting, I joined with zero expectations. Sure, people around me were buzzing: "These wines are extraordinary! You have to try them---they're rare, incredible!" But I'm someone who trusts, yet prefers to verify.
And verify I did. How lucky I am to have had the chance to taste such beautiful, thought-provoking wines. Not every tasting manages to deliver a lineup that can fundamentally shift your perspective, but this one did. Now, I find myself among the converted, a proud member of the "sect" saying: that these wines are exceptional, unique, and profoundly deep.
Here's the thing: people are often too obsessed with the bubbles, treating sparkling wines as though their identity begins and ends with the fizz. Nicola Gatta's wines remind you of something crucial---sparkling wine is, first and foremost, wine. The bubbles are incidental, even irrelevant (in a way). These wines feel niche and rare, like some Champagne that forces you to reconsider everything you thought you knew. They challenge assumptions and reward you with layers of complexity and bliss.
Gatta's wines transcend categories. They speak of place and winemaker carried by a style that is oxidative, saline, and unmistakably marine. These wines are alive, thrilling, and undeniably their own. And now? I'm hooked. A little obsessed, even. I need more.
| Wine | WAVG | SD | Price | QPR | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Nicola Gatta | #6 | 4.04 | 0.13 | 2,490 ₴ | 0.88 |
 Solera 10.20(2019) NV Nicola Gatta | #4 | 4.31 | 0.14 | 5,690 ₴ | 1.02 |
 Solera 9.19(2018) NV Nicola Gatta | 🥈 | 4.48 | 0.13 | 5,690 ₴ | 1.49 |
 Nicola Gatta | 🥉 | 4.39 | 0.10 | 6,890 ₴ | 1.11 |
 Nicola Gatta | 🥇 | 4.63 | 0.08 | 6,890 ₴ | 1.86 |
 Nicola Gatta | #5 | 4.27 | 0.11 | 6,890 ₴ | 0.86 |
Nicola Gatta Cuvée Nature d2023-09 CN3 NV
This wine presents a pleasant and charming nose with notes of bruised apples, cider, and bread crust, which I find particularly appealing. The balance between fruit, oxidation, and salinity is noteworthy. On the palate, it is austere, sharp, and mineral, with cider-like flavors and high salinity in the finish. Tasting it for the second time in 2.5 months, I've grown to appreciate it even more today.
Nicola Gatta Solera 10.20 NV
This wine is truly mind-blowing. It presents intriguing aromas of bruised apples, bitter herbs, caramel, and an unexpected note reminiscent of duct tape. The palate is structured, sharp, and racy, yet maintains a puffy, evolving character that is super salty and very long with flavors of bruised apples, chausson, and cider. Delicious and unique wine.
Nicola Gatta Solera 9.19 NV
This wine represents a more evolved version of the earlier release, featuring a smoky character reminiscent of some Canary wines, yet combined with the distinctiveness of Savagnin from Jura. The nose presents spices and yellow fruits, while the palate is better structured and generous. Although the acidity remains high, it is not as sharp as in newer release. The wine is intensely salty with an incredibly long smoky aftertaste, akin to some whiskies. It's a remarkable wine---complex, nuanced, long, voluminous and continuously evolving.
Nicola Gatta Cru 479 Campiani Ovest Blanc de Blancs 50 lune NV
Wow, this wine beautifully showcases the winemaker's distinct style while offering a fruitier and creamier nose. The smoky touch is present but remains delicate and less opulent than in other bottles. Despite its salty and oily character, it is surprisingly approachable. The high acidity is skillfully balanced by a slight creaminess in the texture. Flavors of cheese and ripe yellow fruits enrich the palate, and a pleasant bitterness in the finish rounds out the experience. It's a great wine that manages to be both distinctive and inviting.
Nicola Gatta Cru 151 Campiani Est Blanc de Noirs 50 lune NV
It's a rare treat to encounter several mind-blowing bottles in one evening, yet this wine truly stands out with its beauty, complexity, and charm. The bouquet is sophisticated and composed---it's not just about individual descriptors but the harmony they create together. There are hints of caramel, plums, herbs, salt, and incense, which add to its allure. The structure is remarkable, with an almost perfect balance. It's salty, and smoky, with intriguing touches of petroleum and iodine. An utterly captivating and unique wine.
Nicola Gatta Cru 151 Campiani Est Blanc de Noirs 50 lune (d2022) NV
This wine appears to be a more developed version of the previous bottle, albeit not in its optimal condition. Nonetheless, it remains a wonderful, complex, and delicious wine. The nose reveals intriguing notes of cheese popcorn, smoke, spices, smeared apple, and fried rubber. On the palate, it is round, oxidized, and salty, with a distinctive finish reminiscent of tropical-climate-aged rum, marked by a duct tape note. While it may be slightly shorter in length than its predecessor, it still delivers a long and delicious experience.