Möhlin

It opens with a promise - that quiet Wasenhaus elegance, fine mineral tension, and a lovely saline thread that pulls you in. There's a whisper of fermenty tang, beautifully controlled, and the fruit - what there is - feels etched rather than painted. Texturally it's graceful, layered, and gently rich. But still, something's missing. It doesn't quite cohere around a centre - as if the core has been hollowed out or hasn't yet arrived. A lovely wine, no doubt, but at this price and pedigree, you find yourself wanting it to say more.