
2015
Region
Austria › Niederösterreich › Wein
Type
white · still
Grapes
Grüner Veltliner
Alcohol
12.5%
Volume
750 mL
Last time I had this was over a year ago, and I wondered: does this wine even want to age? The answer leans towards "no". Still fascinating - smoke and grass, lilac flowers threading through pickle brine, nuts and proper saltiness, citrus zest with well-integrated oak. But something's starting to collapse in the mid-palate, like the wine's structure is quietly giving up. Still interesting, still delicious, but it's telling you it's tired.
The wine originates from vineyards situated at an elevation of 180-200 meters above sea level, with vines averaging around 60 years of age, ensuring a deep-rooted exploration of the terroir's complexity. Vinification is handled with a natural approach, embracing spontaneous fermentation without temperature control and employing semi-carbonic maceration for 7 days in qvevri, 25% of which includes the stems, to enhance the wine's structure and aromatic profile. Following fermentation, the wine undergoes a maturation process lasting 16 months in old acacia barrels with a 700-litre capacity, contributing nuanced layers of texture and flavour. Bottling is conducted without filtration or fining, with a minimal dose of SO₂ added at bottling to preserve the wine's integrity.
The wine presents an intriguing initial profile, with brett-like characteristics that may initially challenge the senses. However, it swiftly unfolds to reveal a complex bouquet of smoke, grass, lilac flowers, and a subtle hint of pickles, demonstrating its layered nature (hehe).
The palate is marked by a distinctive saltiness, intertwined with fermentation-like nuances and the fresh zing of green apricot, illustrating a harmonious blend of flavours. The oak integration is commendable, adding depth without overwhelming the wine's intrinsic qualities. With a long, lingering aftertaste, this wine stands out for its complexity and delightful taste.
Its potential for cellar ageing, however, remains a question, as the wine's current expressiveness and balance might suggest a readiness for immediate enjoyment rather than prolonged storage.