Filagnotti

Oh, this is beautiful. Cortese doing things you'd never expect - forget everything you know about boring Gavi. Needs some air time, but even halfway there it wraps you in buckwheat honey, bruised apples, sweet spice, apple jam with cinnamon. Dried herbs and nuts too. Delicious concentration, cracking acidity, VA behaving itself. Tannins are biting. Stylish, persistent, bloody delicious.