Conasbrancas

Immediate impression - mature and saline, more oxidative than I'd hoped, but intact. I ordered the 2022 and got offered the 2017 instead; well, I didn't say no. With the scuffed label I suspect it's a survivor bottle (i.e. from Goodwine storage that was destroyed in the beginning of the full-scale war). Aromas lean to baked quince and apple, honey, propolis and chamomile infusion, a lick of sea breeze, crushed nuts, a faint feral curl. The palate is salty and broad, waxy in feel, full in weight. Balance wobbles a touch - the heft and a hint of fatigue show - yet there's a savoury calm that carries it. Not pristine, but quietly compelling. In the end, a bottle I was happy to drink solo.