Oh what a lemon drop candy punch this has - brioche, butter, delicious cider character. White plums threading through, honey undertones. Rounded and full-bodied on the palate, with excellent acidity beautifully balanced by the dosage - real concentration here. The finish is where it gets even more interesting: spices, fruits, minerality, honey all blending together with a lovely bitter edge trailing off. This is grower Champagne done right - focused, generous, with enough complexity to keep you coming back. Quietly compelling stuff.

Lemon, chalk, seashells - classic Gravonia territory. But listen, this has opened up beautifully over the past year: acacia honey now, not just tilia, more floral depth coming through. Oak and green hazelnut still anchoring everything, firm mineral backbone doing the work. The palate has proper concentration and excellent fruit quality. Long, detailed finish that just keeps unfolding. More or less the same wine, but more comfortable with itself now. This is why you cellar these whites - they reward patience without losing that characteristic tension.

Opens with a bit of funk - boiled cabbage, onion - but give it air and watch the magic happen. Honey and propolis emerging, yellow fruits, developing petrol character, chamomile. Hazelnuts, curry spice, dried mushrooms. This is proper old school white Rioja in full stride: complex, bone-dry, still holding decent acidity though you can feel it's beginning its graceful decline. But fuck me, it's delicious. This is what 17+ years does to Gravonia when you're patient - layers upon layers, savoury depth, that oxidative style that either clicks for you or it doesn't. For me? It absolutely clicks. Wine with character and stories to tell.

Still Champagne, basically. Sophisticated, multilayered nose - damp cellar, proper cider character, bruised yellow fruits, honey cake. Nuts and spice threading through everything. Fresh on the palate despite the age, round and intense with near-perfect balance. The structure here is impressive, long flavourful finish that just lingers. Hard not to think this is what white Rioja should aspire to - López de Heredia at the top of their game. This isn't wine you analyze for flaws or virtues; this is wine you simply enjoy and feel grateful someone still makes them this way. Old school brilliance.

Oh god, the salinity on this - blissfully, addictively salty. Propolis, honey, nuts drenched in honey, cashews specifically. Touch of rust, cheese notes emerging. Still a bit closed, hiding secrets, but so bloody delicious. Beautiful acidity still holding strong, buttery texture, soft but with serious potential ahead. This is 17-year-old Tondonia that hasn't even hit its stride yet - layers waiting to unfold. The balance between evolution and restraint is stunning. This is why people obsess over López de Heredia whites. Exceptional.

After that López de Heredia flight, this doesn't hit quite as hard as it used to - but listen, it's still wonderful wine. Rich, concentrated nose: grapefruit, aged bai mu dan cake, acacia honey, white pepper, grapefruit oil. The texture is stupid good - everything just works. Balanced, complex, keeps revealing new layers as you sit with it. Green apricots emerging, then this bitter herb character spreading across the palate. Long, delicious finish with something genuinely haunting about it. Austria's top-tier Grüner showing what a decade of age can do. Different league from López de Heredia, but impressive in its own right.

Apple pie, damp cellar, chalk, raisins. Cognac notes creeping in, caramel, red flowers, grapefruit, butter. Super complex - no, seriously, super complex. Multilayered, long, beautiful. The acidity! Bloody hell! The acidity is fantastic - still vibrant, still driving everything forward. The balance is gorgeous, and the potential here is mad. This is 15-year-old rosado that's nowhere near done. López de Heredia taking rosé into territory most winemakers don't even know exists. Exceptional wine that makes you rethink what rosado can be with time and proper winemaking. Stunning.

Every bottle of this wine I've opened has been different. One was super young and charged, almost like that Gravonia 2016. But this bottle? This one shows its age - evolved, oxidative profile - yet the body feels strikingly alive, almost defiant. Makes you wonder how long it can keep this energy. Everything else remains the same as before, which is excellent news. Twenty-eight years old and still full of contradictions. White Rioja at its most fascinating.

Mushroom broth, salted nuts, maple syrup, white and yellow fruits - classic vin jaune territory. Intense on both nose and palate, and it feels deceptively light despite 14.5% alcohol. Salty, savoury, deeply satisfying. Not the most profound or layered vin jaune I've encountered, but absolutely solid and exactly what you want at the end of a night like this. Does the job beautifully without demanding too much of you.