Macchiona

I love it when everything falls into place like a puzzle. Someone voices a possibility, another contributes an idea, others join in, and suddenly everything seems effortless and enjoyable---devoid of unnecessary drama. It's as if God, in his infinite wisdom, wove these events into the fabric of history while creating the universe. The key is not to miss the momentum, and not to let the inertia dissipate.

Before some recent tasting, we were sitting at Lo, when suddenly a friend from Germany messaged me, offering to send over a few bottles from a certain shop. Choosing the right wines is no trivial matter, but the timely debate over the availability of Macchiona 2006 at Goodwine tipped the scales. That's how we decided to do a vertical tasting of this wine. My friend could source the rare 2002 vintage (though its rarity stems more from its limited production and distinctive label than actual inaccessibility) and the 2009. So, upon my return to Kyiv, organising this tasting became one of my first priorities.

Once again, Lo's magic came alive. What began as a small, intimate tasting quickly transformed into a lively gathering, with more people joining the table as the evening unveiled, which culminated in a ritual feast of roasted chickens paired with all sorts of delicious accompaniments (which, for the sake of brevity, won't even be mentioned in this piece).

What is Macchiona, and why a vertical tasting? On one level, the answer is simple: we could gather, so we did. But Macchiona is a fascinating 50/50 blend of Barbera and Bonarda from the same estate that produced the legendary Ageno. Historically, the estate was divided into two parts: La Stoppa and Macchiona.

Macchiona is named after a farmhouse nestled among the most traditional red grape vineyards of Colli Piacentini, a region faithfully reflected in this wine. The vinification process includes 40 days of maceration on the skins in stainless steel or cement tanks. Fermentation is spontaneous, with indigenous yeasts, followed by ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels (15, 20, and 40 hectolitres) and extended bottle ageing. The wine is unfiltered, with no added sulphites, and has an average production of 25,000 bottles, along with 500 magnums and 100 double magnums.

Each vintage of Macchiona is treated with individuality, meaning they are not necessarily released in chronological order. Instead, they are unveiled when deemed ready. The "dieciannidopo" or "ten years later" on the 2002 label commemorates a milestone: it was the first vintage of Macchiona to be intentionally held back and not released immediately following the previous vintage. In fact, it wasn't released until 2012, marking a decade of patient maturation.

Before this gathering, I'd only tasted Macchiona a few times, but I always enjoyed it. The idea of exploring its evolution over different vintages felt irresistibly appealing. If I were to offer practical advice, I'd say: go for the 2012---it's stunning. The other vintages? They're more suited for the fun and curiosity of a tasting. But don't just take my word for it---see for yourself.

Livio Felluga Terre Alte 2008

This 17-year-old blend of Friulano, Pinot Blanco, and Sauvignon brought by Maksym was an intriguing experiment. While showing some signs of age and fatigue, it offered a restrained nose with notes of stone fruits, fried nuts, oak, and vanilla. On the palate, the wine is oily with a touch of bitterness, accompanied by decent but somewhat lacking acidity. Overall, it's a wine that's neither particularly bad nor outstanding.

La Stoppa Macchiona 2016

This wine presents a bit of a conundrum in terms of its target audience. It strikes a profile that's too sweet for typical natural wine enthusiasts, yet too funky for those who prefer semi-dry or semi-sweet wines. While enjoyable, it's not something I'd personally seek out. Its fruit-forward profile boasts delicious jammy red fruits, complemented by a touch of VA, chocolate, and floral notes. The acidity is decent, given the sugar levels, but perhaps not robust enough to suggest significant future development---yet another puzzle. It carries a smokey and funky character that adds to its complexity.

La Stoppa Macchiona 2012

Now we're talking. This wine captivates with a complex and charming nose featuring dark fruits, liquor notes, tobacco, leather, barnyard, earth, and a floral touch. On the palate, it is deliciously pronounced and intense, showcasing a multilayered profile supported by a solid structure and good acidity. Elevated by a touch of VA, it concludes with a long, flavorful finish that's both perfumed and intriguingly bloody.

Giovanni Rosso Barolo Serralunga d'Alba 2020

This wine is beautiful, though still a bit on the young side. It offers a charming nose with notes of red berries, red flowers, tar, earth, and a subtle smokey touch. On the palate, it's tight and fresh, leading to a delicious finish with hints of ya'an cha. Complex and delightful, it holds promise for further development with time.

La Stoppa Macchiona 2009

This (seemingly) semi-dry release offers improved acidity and structure compared to the 2016 vintage. While still jammy and fruit-forward, its maturity introduces intriguing notes of cough syrup, earth, tar, and tobacco. The result is a long, powerful, and delicious wine that balances its sweetness beautifully.

La Stoppa Macchiona 2006

This wine is noteworthy, albeit with a somewhat unusual and polarizing nose. It leans slightly towards oxidation, yet maintains a certain appeal with its unique combination of porridge with blood sausage, dark fruits, tar, and damp earth. While the nose may feel a bit fatigued, the palate tells a different story---delicious, relatively fresh, and slightly tight, with powerful tannins and a long finish. Overall, it's a complex, multilayered wine that excels where it matters most.

La Stoppa Macchiona dieciannidopo 2002

This release stands out as arguably the most delicate and seamlessly executed yet (at least among the ones we tasted this evening). It avoids being overly jammy, instead presenting pleasant amaro notes and good fruit, with well-integrated VA, chocolate, syrup, mushrooms, damp earth, and tobacco. The structure is impressive and mature, with a balsamic touch adding depth, while still maintaining good acidity. It was undeniably my favorite wine of the evening.

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