Fine & Rare Dinner Vol. 3 by Maksym Demchenko
A short and memorable travel to Montalcino.
By Boris · Hosted by Max Demchenko
Water and everything that inhabits it has always unsettled me. But if, by some miraculous chance, I were to catch a golden fish offering three wishes, I'd gladly take the opportunity. Among my wishes, I'd ask to always retain the ability to marvel at the wonders of this world. Or perhaps I'd simplify it---grant me the ability to love, endlessly and deeply, for my entire life. After all, that feeling travels like a whisper on the wind---passed through the sparkle in someone's eyes, the warmth in their voice, the colours rippling through a glass of wine, and everything that follows. And what exactly happens next? A quiet ritual unfolds, a sacred moment between a person and a wine.
Of course, all of this eventually gets reduced to words---that cursed reduction, whether of human life or the experience of wine. It lingers, inescapable. But sometimes, you just want to dissolve into the moment, to let it envelop you completely. And then something extraordinary happens: you and the wine intertwine, becoming part of something far greater. This time, that "something greater" was Montalcino---with all its grit, its beauty, its deep history, and its promising future. The landscapes of Montalcino seemed to reflect themselves in the eyes of Mr Maksym as he shared the experience with us.
To put it plainly, Mr Maksym is a dangerous man. Like Odin from God of War Ragnarök, he manipulates and entices us by appealing to the best parts of you. And for the third time this year, he gathered the "kittens" from across Kyiv to share the joy of the beautiful. We began with Burgundy and moved to Champagne, and while Piemonte might have been the logical next step, everyone has their own geography, so this time we found ourselves in Montalcino. And who could complain? Especially with such exquisite wines and impeccable food pairings! I won't go into detail about the food, but let me say this: the team at 101 creates dishes so extraordinary, that they elevate the wines without ever overshadowing them. Ego may be a dangerous thing, but not everyone succumbs to its pitfalls.
As for the stories Maksym shared, they're his to tell. My words wouldn't do them justice. You can read about the beauty of the region and its history elsewhere. If you can't--well, let's open a bottle of wine and talk about it together. For now, I'll do what's inevitable---submit to that cursed reduction, as though Prokhasko's works had never passed through my ears.
So, here it is---emotions stored safely in the heart, and now, the pragmatic details: glowing scores from the participants of this sacred gathering, and my own tasting notes. Let's begin.
| Wine | WAVG | SD | Price | QPR | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Ca' del Bosco | #5 | 4.28 | 0.13 | – | 6,100 ₴ | 0.92 |
 Biondi-Santi | #6 | 4.06 | 0.09 | – | 5,200 ₴ | 0.52 |
 Podere Salicutti | 🥉 | 4.55 | 0.08 | 1 | 12,500 ₴ | 0.92 |
 Casanova di Neri | #4 | 4.48 | 0.14 | – | 26,500 ₴ | 0.55 |
 Stella di Campalto | 🥈 | 4.63 | 0.07 | 4 | 15,000 ₴ | 1.01 |
 Soldera | 🥇 | 4.69 | 0.12 | 4 | 26,500 ₴ | 0.87 |
Ca' del Bosco Annamaria Clementi 2015
This Franciacorta stands out as arguably the best I've tasted, rivaling some renowned Champagnes. It presents a serious, intense, and complex character, with an inviting nose of damp cellar, toast, white fruits, honey, and fried nuts. On the palate, it is exceptionally clean, round, and intense, offering a rich evolution of flavors. The finish is long, generous, and full-bodied, with lingering notes of toast and fried nuts. Truly an impressive and sophisticated sparkling wine.
Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino 2017
While the nose may not be the most complex or nuanced, it retains a certain beauty and subtle perfume, especially when enjoyed from a Burgundy glass. The aromas of wild berries, tar, red flowers, dry earth, and spices mingle with a hint of caramel. On the palate, the wine takes a different direction, presenting dry tannins and a powerful presence that quickly mellow, resulting in a long and pleasant finish. Its dense, slightly syrupy structure is somewhat balanced by decent acidity, revealing flavors of fresh asphalt, smoked fruits, and medicinal herbs. The experience is reminiscent of cola, in the best neutral way - just an opinion.
Podere Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino Teatro 2016
This wine is simply gorgeous, captivating with its seductive and nuanced perfumed bouquet. Aromas of dried cherry, barberry, confiture, and sweet spices are delicately accented by a hint of pickles, night flowers, and gravel. Its almost perfectly balanced composition and wonderful texture are complemented by good acidity and a long, delicate aftertaste. This wine is less about pinpointing specific notes and more about evoking emotions and pleasure. Its quaffability is a quality I value a lot.
Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 2012
This wine presents a delightful enigma. While I appreciate its quality and sophistication, it feels somewhat overwhelming and slightly contrived compared to Stella and Salicutti, despite its elegance. Nonetheless, I thoroughly enjoyed it and agree that it requires more time in the bottle, as it remains quite youthful.
The wine showcases bold and rich notes of dark cherry, spices, oak, and sweet tobacco, with intriguing undertones of blood, mushrooms, and earth. Despite its powerful presence and 15% ABV, it maintains a pleasant elegance. On the palate, it is intense, ripe, and rich, with a well-packed and structured profile.
Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012
My initial impression was that this Brunello from Stella might fall short compared to their other wines. And I thought - at last! It can't be that each their wine is so great. But with a little time, it quickly won me over once again.
This wine is wonderful, seductive, and stylish, with a beautiful bouquet that features natty undertones, adding complexity to the experience. Aromas of Morello cherry, Nordic berries, wet limestone, nori, nuts, and wet forest floor captivate the senses. On the palate, it is simply incredible, with a wonderful structure that's insanely fresh, long, and delicious. While it might be more straightforward than some other Stella wines, this simplicity works in its favour, making it irresistibly quaffable.
Soldera Case Basse Sangiovese Toscana 2017
This is my first encounter with Soldera, and I genuinely enjoyed it. Although it's absurdly young and currently lacks the depth it is likely to develop, it clearly possesses the DNA for greatness and is already enjoyable today. This delightful wine seduces with its bouquet of raspberry jam, tobacco, spices, rose petals, and canned strawberry---all aromas I adore. It strikes a perfect balance with its structured, fresh, evolving, and long palate. The flavors of milk chocolate, marzipan, and wild berries linger (or rather stick) beautifully, making it subtle, nuanced, and dangerously quaffable.
However, my favorite of the night remains Stella. 😈