Bruno Paillard: Collection Anciens Dégorgements P2
A vertical tasting of Première Cuvée disgorged from 2001 to 2006.
By Boris · Hosted by Boris Buliga
As someone with limited experience in observing how wine evolves in the bottle over time, I'm always captivated by vertical tastings. While they don't provide definitive answers, they offer glimpses---small bits of information to fuel future speculations. And with some wines, they can deliver a fascinating experience that challenges misconceptions, defies expectations, and dismantles stereotypes.
Bruno Paillard is widely regarded (citation needed) as the first Champagne producer to include a disgorgement date on all their cuvées. This focus on disgorgement dates allows an intriguing opportunity to taste their Première Cuvée (their entry-level wine) across different disgorgement dates. Bruno Paillard offers sets called Collection Anciens Dégorgements, but sometimes, as in this case, passionate individuals like Volodymyr can source a unique range directly from the producer.
This time, Volodymyr brought us together to explore older bottles---disgorged between 2001 and 2006, based on vintages spanning 1997 to 2002. Every bottle was remarkably vibrant, each telling its own story yet bearing a distinctive and consistent signature. The only bittersweet takeaway? These bottles show how patience truly pays off---a humbling reminder in an age where time feels like a fleeting, elusive asset.
| Wine | WAVG | SD | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Cuvée 72 (d2019)(2015) NV Bruno Paillard | #7 | 4.10 | 0.00 | – |
 Première Cuvée (d2006)(2002) NV Bruno Paillard | #6 | 4.29 | 0.06 | – |
 Première Cuvée (d2005)(2001) NV Bruno Paillard | #5 | 4.30 | 0.00 | – |
 Première Cuvée (d2004)(2000) NV Bruno Paillard | 🥈 | 4.47 | 0.10 | – |
 Première Cuvée (d2003)(1999) NV Bruno Paillard | 🥇 | 4.49 | 0.06 | 1 |
 Première Cuvée (d2002)(1998) NV Bruno Paillard | 🥉 | 4.44 | 0.06 | 1 |
 Première Cuvée (d2001)(1997) NV Bruno Paillard | #4 | 4.43 | 0.17 | – |
Bruno Paillard Cuvée 72 (d2019) NV
This wine is wonderfully fresh and charming, with bright aromas of lemon, apple, and a touch of green undertones, all enhanced by a delightful perfume. On the palate, it boasts a superb balance, offering layers of refreshing flavors alongside a creamy texture. A liquid lemon tart. Its neat and vinous character makes it an excellent choice for those seeking the experience of a slightly aged Première Cuvée without the wait.
Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée (d2006) NV
This wine impresses with its vibrant and complex profile. The aroma bursts with orange oil and peel, blended with notes of a damp cellar, baked apple, and fried nuts. On the palate, it is remarkably fresh and densely packed with nuanced flavors. Hints of lemon, cider, and wet earth add depth, while its long, clean finish completes the experience.
Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée (d2005) NV
This wine presents an intriguing bouquet with notes of boiled onion and damp cellar potato, accompanied by hints of buckwheat honey, bread crust, and orange oil. While the nose is less intense than the 2006 disgorgement, the palate stands out for its intense and fresh profile, offering a more captivating experience. It's deliciously vinous and packed with flavor, though slightly less balanced. Overall, a fascinating bottle.
Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée (d2004) NV
Wow, this wine is truly remarkable. The aroma unfolds with floral notes, pastila, acacia honey, quince jam, and a hint of dried herbs. Among the range of disgorgements between 2001 and 2006, it stands out as the most voluminous and opulent, offering a nuanced, detailed, and multilayered experience. With its dense and rich character, it's irresistibly delicious.
Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée (d2003) NV
This wine showcases an enticing bouquet of orange oil, pine nuts, orange peel, and bruised apple, enriched by the sweet creaminess of zefir and rich notes of uzvar, with a touch of spices and dried herbs. Toasted notes add depth. Super fresh, it feels youthful and vibrant, almost as voluminous as the 2004 disgorgement but with added freshness and elegance. The palate reveals hints of Duchesse citro, enhancing its sophisticated charm. Overall, it's great stuff and achieves an impressive evolution in the glass.
Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée (d2002) NV
This wine offers a delightful medley of aromas, featuring cooked mushrooms, cream, cheese, spices, and a hint of caramelised orange peel, notes of honey, baked apple, and uzvar. While it may be less complex and nuanced than previous selections (i.e. disgorgements from 2003 to 2006), its youthful and insanely quaffable nature makes it incredibly delicious. It's my favourite of the night.
Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée (d2001) NV
This wine exudes a captivating aroma of iodine and sea breeze, complemented by notes of pear candy and pastilla. Subtle hints of uzvar and spices add to its complexity. Somehow this wine reminds me of some Islay whiskey. The nose is delicate and detailed, offering a complex and nuanced profile that remains refreshingly vibrant. Although slightly restrained, it invites exploration to fully appreciate its beautiful notes---not as reserved as the 2005 disgorgement, yet still layered and intriguing. Truly a wonderful wine in an excellent state, with the potential to age gracefully for years to come.