Mixed Bag Vol. 13

The Mixed Bag format is definitely my favourite for wine tastings. Aside from ever-present budget constraints, it offers complete freedom in wine selection. Any topic and combination is possible! Besides, it also allows tailoring the selection to the participants, which is absolutely possible thanks to the number of shared wine journeys. However, deciding on the lineup for such events takes more effort, especially compared to events focused on specific winemakers. And given the number of wines I want to share, I often do last-minute switches. Whether it's due to insecurity or the phase of the moon---who knows?

This time (as always), I agonised over the selection, swapping and rearranging the bottles repeatedly over and over again. Yet one guiding principle helped me: I wanted to share some special bottles that aren't easily found on store shelves. Why? Because this tasting is for charity---all the collected funds (not just the proceeds) go towards purchasing spare parts for drones, and for such a cause, I've significantly raised the participation fee. So, it's only fair to reward the participants accordingly.

So, here we are with a literal mix of things. Wines of absolutely different styles and from various regions. Some are absurdly young, while others are older than some participants. And the wines are strung together in such an odd order! Maybe I'm losing my mind, but on paper, it looks beautiful. And it fills me with anticipation considering that all wines are served blind.

Jean-Pierre Robinot l'opéra des vins Fêtembulles 2022

We've already had the pleasure of drinking this wine, but I simply couldn't resist bringing it as a welcoming drink. You can read more about the incredible Jean-Pierre in a separate article. As for the Fêtembulles, it's a pét-nat made from 100% Chenin Blanc, sourced from his youngest vines, around twenty years old. The initial fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks. According to Tutto Wines, this wine spends around nine months on lees before being hand-disgorged.

This is definitely among my all-time favourite pét-nats. Beautiful oxidized bouquet of honey, bruised apples, pastila, and panettone with candied fruits. Super easy to drink---a bit sweet but so fresh and lovely, thanks to a touch of salinity. Long and delicious aftertaste. Simply quaffable.

Dehours & Fils Lieu-Dit La Croix Joly Réserve Perpétuelle Rosé 2013-2019/2016 NV

A winemaker I knew nothing about---I almost accidentally ordered a bottle of Dehours & Fils Lieu-Dit Brisefer Réserve Perpétuelle 2013-2016 NV, which I liked so much that I decided to try other offerings from this small Champagne producer. I haven't tasted this wine yet, so it's the biggest experiment of the evening---but I should have some fun too, right? A Réserve Perpétuelle of 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018, and 2019 (so 2013-2019 excluding 2019). It was only recently disgorged, but the wine should have had some time to settle.

Serious rosé. Beautiful bouquet of salted nuts, red currant, and bruised red apples. Great volume and intensity---it's almost full-bodied. Well-balanced with a long and flavourful aftertaste. It's way too young, so I'm glad I have more of this wine in my stash.

Gentle Folk Village Pinot 2016

This one's straightforward. I love the "underground" Australian scene, and that's no secret---we've been diving into it together for years now. Gentle Folk is one of those winemakers I turn to often when I want to enjoy quality wine in a fairly classic style, more reminiscent of European wines. Currently, you can find the 2021 vintage of this wine on Kyiv's shelves, but I happen to have a bottle of the 2016 vintage. There's a good story behind it. Serhii K once brought a bottle of this wine to Lo Bar, and we liked it so much that I ordered one from Europe for our tastings (such beauty must be shared). Meanwhile, Vasyl decided to offer the 2021 vintage by the glass at the bar. It's worth noting that stylistically, they differ significantly---the 2016 is a serious "glou-glou" (yes, a bit contradictory), while the 2021 is a serious Pinot. By the way, due to its delicacy, this wine is placed early in our lineup, even before the whites.

This is one love. It's incredibly hard to pinpoint the origins of this wine, but some participants of the blind tasting guessed Beaujolais, Jura, or Galicia. Regardless, it has a beautiful bouquet of Nordic berries, cocoa, cherry pie, raw meat, damp earth, mushrooms, and bitter herbs. Fresh, insanely quaffable, and wonderfully balanced. I want more!

Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Montlouis sur Loire Remus 2021

This choice was a no-brainer. Honestly, I wanted to include the the 2016 Montlouis sur Loire Clos Michet, but first, I didn't want to overload the lineup with complex wines, and second, I wanted something super fresh and beginner-friendly. Plus, they say the 2021 Remus is just starting to come into its own, though it's not as outstanding as some of the winemaker's other offerings. In any case, this bottle is from my reserves because you can't buy the 2021 anymore; only the 2022 is available on shelves. By the way, you can read more about the winemaker on a separate page.

What a tremendous difference in just over a year! A well-tuned and elegant bouquet of tilia honey, quince, white flowers, and gunpowder. Wonderful balance---there's intensity, freshness, and so many flavours. It's delicious, voluminous, and long. I couldn't help myself and finished a glass in an instant.

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin La Chatenière Premier Cru 2021

Yes, it's indulgent to drink it so young---I know. But I'm genuinely curious to see how it's developing. Plus, this should be a more serious offering that you can't just pick up at the shop. We've already tasted several wines from this wonderful winemaker. He's known for his somewhat unconventional approaches to barrel use (he prefers larger barrels than most, and he ages the wines a bit longer), but he produces sincerely beautiful things. You can read more about him on a separate page.

I was a bit hesitant to open this bottle---after all, it's just way too young. But considering it was for a charitable event, I decided to give it a try. And yes, it's still too young, but what a beautiful bottle. I initially planned to decant it briefly, but due to last-minute order changes, it ended up spending almost 2 hours in the decanter.

Complex and multilayered bouquet of sardines in oil, gunpowder, yellow fruits, smoke, caramel, buttered Chaussons aux Pommes, hazelnut, and citrus. On the palate, it offers great structure, volume, and balance, with a very nice oak influence. Flavours of melon, hazelnut, butter, and citrus. A delicious treat.

Tenuta Grillo Baccabianca 2008

I included this bottle after a tasting hosted by Vasyl. I'm not ashamed to admit I'm not a fan of orange wines. But, of course, some just blow you away, and for me, this is one of those bottles. A super conservative approach, long maceration, long bottle ageing---and the wine is still so youthful! Unfortunately, it's now only available in a few establishments (there should still be some in Lo Bar).

Baccabianca is a unique 100% Cortese skin-contact wine. It comes from vines that are 40 and 15 years old. It undergoes 60 days of skin contact with native yeasts, spontaneous fermentation, 12 months of ageing in steel tanks, and 5 years in bottles. Around 6000 bottles are produced annually.

You can read more about the producer on a separate page.

It's not often that I enjoy an 'orange' wine, but some are so distinct, unique, and well-made that they leave me in awe. This one is just beautiful---an age-defining Cortese. A non-vulgar and charming bouquet of pine nut, apricot jam, dried herbs, cherry plum, and a touch of VA. Almost perfectly balanced, with nice intensity and delicate tannins. Mature, yet so fresh. This wine shows rustic charm and deep elegance.

R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Tinto Reserva 2001

Now, this is a classic. We could, of course, organise another tasting dedicated to this winemaker, but as you know, I prefer R. López de Heredia events where nearly all the wines are white or rosé. So what do we have here? A super traditional winemaking approach that hasn't changed for hundreds of years, with long ageing in barrel and bottle. We have the chance to taste an old wine! You can find more information about the producer on a separate page.

Over time, I've come to appreciate this style. It's not just a simple combination of austerity and elegance; it also has an incredibly fresh and chalky palate, yet with concentration and balance at the same time. And boy, it still feels so young! Great wine for sure.

The bouquet reveals notes of figs, caramel, pomegranate, sour cherry, leather, and grilled meat. On the palate, you find flavours of Sicilian oranges, sour cherry, leather, and wood.

Chateau de Fargues Sauternes 2002

I love to finish wine tastings with something sweet. A small but ancient estate, owned by the same family for over half a century. Sometimes Chateau de Fargues is referred to as the younger brother of Château d'Yquem, which is reflected at least in its much more accessible price. But in any case, this is a great wine from a legendary region. It's worth noting, though, that this isn't the best vintage. But great winemakers are great for a reason---they make outstanding wines even in tough years. This bottle was a birthday gift, and considering the special nature of this tasting, I'm only too happy to share such beauty.

Just give me the bottle back and leave me alone---I could easily finish it myself! What a captivating bouquet of eucalyptus, juniper, pine nut, mushrooms, apricot jam, caramel, acid sweets, butter cookie, and nutmeg. Pure bliss in a glass---round, perfectly balanced, concentrated, evolving, and long.

Dehours & Fils Lieu-Dit Maisoncelle Réserve Perpétuelle 2013-2017 NV

Since we don't know how to stop, we had to take an extra bottle. And look how gorgeous it was!

Dehours is definitely a discovery! All the Réserve Perpétuelle I've tasted so far are incredible. This one offers a charming and intense bouquet of bakery, fried nuts, dried cheese, with hints of damp cellar and bitter herbs. Nice intensity---it's round, long, and a bit pushy, but fresh, flavourful, and seamless with neat oxi notes mixed with tarragon and bitter herbs. Neat. I need to give it another try.

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