It's nothing short of remarkable that, despite all odds and the relentless chaos of war, Kyiv continues to welcome a steady stream of new wines. Cheers to the brave souls making this happen! Some of these wines are like catching up with old friends, others are delightful new encounters, and a few are complete enigmas to me.

I get that choosing what to import is no walk in the park. Honestly, I probably don't fully grasp the gravity of those decisions since I'm not in the wine business---or any retail business, for that matter. But as someone who occasionally hunts down for wines in Europe that haven't made it to the Ukrainian market, I do find myself scratching my head at certain bottles. Why these wines, and not the ones I adore but can't find here?

Then there's the moment when respected voices praise wines that left me cold or confused. I'm left with two choices: let it slide and move on; or grab a few bottles, give them a little nap (nine months isn't exactly what you'd call ageing), and try again. And so, here we are, with Domaine Nowack and Huré Frères. Not to pit them against each other, but to see how these young Champagne winemakers hold up.

Huré Frères

Raoul Huré and his two sons, François and Pierre, are the dynamic trio behind Huré Frères, a family-run winery in Ludes, nestled in the Montagne de Reims. Founded in the mid-20th century, this estate is a proud representative of the grower's Champagne movement, a movement that champions the creation of terroir-driven wines---wines that are as much a reflection of their land as they are of the people who craft them.

When comparing Huré Frères to Domaine Nowack, it's important to note that both producers represent the new wave of grower Champagnes, yet they approach their craft with different philosophies. Huré Frères, with its longer-established roots, emphasizes a balanced expression of terroir and tradition, producing wines that are often a little more classic in style, with a keen focus on ageing potential and the character of their specific plots.

Domaine Nowack

Domaine Nowack, located in Vandières in the Vallée de la Marne, has rapidly gained recognition as a leader of innovation and quality in the Champagne region, thanks to the visionary work of Flavien Nowack. Since joining his family's domaine in 2011, Flavien has embraced a modern approach, becoming part of a movement that emphasises the production of single-vineyard, single-variety, and single-vintage Champagnes. This approach underscores his commitment to expressing the unique terroir of Vandières with clarity and precision, which are rare in the region.

Flavien's dedication to organic farming and his insistence on harvesting grapes only at full maturity reflects his respect for nature and his desire to create wines that fully express their origin. Starting with three hectares of vineyards handed down by his father, Flavien set out to craft three distinct Champagnes, each from a different single parcel of Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. Remarkably, all these parcels are situated at the same elevation within Vandières, yet they reveal striking differences in the wines, highlighting the nuances of each varietal when grown in the same terroir.

Flavien's non-interventionist philosophy extends from the vineyard to the cellar. By avoiding chaptalization (the addition of sugar to the must) and malolactic fermentation, he preserves the pure, delicate flavours of his grapes. He also relies on natural yeast from unfermented grape must for the secondary fermentation in the bottle, a technique that enhances the vinous character of his Champagnes. Additionally, Flavien bottles his wines under lower pressure than is typical for Champagne, contributing to their distinctive, vinous texture and style.

Flavien Nowack's approach sets him apart from many traditional Champagne producers, as he focuses on minimal intervention and maximum expression of terroir. This is in contrast to the slightly more traditional methods employed by houses like Huré Frères, which, while also terroir-driven, may use a broader blend of grapes and parcels to achieve their desired style. Flavien's Champagnes often appeal to those who appreciate a more natural, unadulterated wine experience, where the characteristics of the vineyard shine through without the influence of additives or extensive cellar manipulations.

His work is a testament to the potential of Champagne as a reflection of place, and his wines provide a fascinating counterpoint to those of more established producers like Huré Frères, making for an intriguing comparison in any tasting.

Let's explore how these philosophies translate into the glass.

Domaine Nowack Assemblage Sans Année Autre Cru NV

Assemblage Sans Année (meaning "without year" in French) is a blend of 60% Pinot Meunier and 40% Chardonnay. This non-vintage Champagne captures the essence of Vandières, with fruit sourced from multiple parcels. The base wine is from the 2020 vintage, complemented by 40% reserve wines from 2012 to 2019. Fermentation is spontaneous, using only natural yeasts, and the wine is aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks and small oak barrels. The vin clair undergoes natural malolactic fermentation in the spring, without chaptalization, fining, filtering, or cold stabilization. For the secondary fermentation, the wine is aged under a crown cap using MCR (Mout Concentré Rectifié), with a final dosage of 1 g/L, resulting in a precise and terroir-driven expression.

Huré Frères Inattendue 2018

Their cuvée Inattendue, which translates to "unexpected" in French, lives up to its name by offering a surprising depth of ageing potential and complex aromas from Chardonnay grapes sourced from Ludes and Rilly-la-Montagne. This wine spends at least 48 months on its lees, which contributes to its rich texture and nuanced flavours, before being disgorged in May 2023 with a delicate dosage of 3 g/L.

Huré Frères Instantanée 2017

Instantanée (meaning "instant" in French) is the Huré Frères' annual snapshot---a vintage Champagne that captures the essence of the year. It's a blend of the three classic Champagne varietals: 35% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 30% Pinot Meunier, sourced from the vineyards in Ludes, Villedommange, Rilly-la-Montagne, and Brouillet. After spending a minimum of 60 months on its lees, it was disgorged in May 2023, also with a dosage of 3 g/L.

Domaine Nowack Les Terres Bleues 2019

Les Terres Bleues is a 100% Pinot Meunier Champagne, sourced from the Les Terres Bleues parcel in the town of Vandières, located on the higher altitude slopes (Haut-Coteau) of Flavien's vineyards in the Vallée de la Marne. The soil here is fossilized limestone, and the vines are planted at an altitude of 180 meters. Fermentation is spontaneous with natural yeasts, and the vin clair is aged in small oak barrels, further enhancing its complexity. Like the Assemblage Sans Année, this wine is not chaptalized, fined, filtered, or cold stabilized, and it undergoes natural malolactic fermentation in the spring. For the secondary fermentation, it is aged under cork using MCR, with a slightly higher dosage of 7 g/L. This Champagne is a true expression of its terroir, showcasing the minerality and depth that Pinot Meunier can achieve in the right conditions.

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