La Clé des Sept Arpents 1er Cru à Mareuil-sur-Aÿ (2020)

Unexpectedly good. The previous release I tasted just after disgorgement was sharp but didn't have the depth - this one, almost two years off the lees and into bottle, shows what patience does. A decant pulls more out of it; without one it stays composed but reserved. Yellow apple and lemon up front, white bread, a medicinal hint underneath, and then peanut butter rising as it opens. Precise, saline, delicious.