Vecchio Samperi Ventennale

Absolute banger. Bone-dry from nose to finish - properly demanding stuff that makes you work for it. Dried stone fruits mingle with fresh ones, then hazelnuts, unripe walnuts, chestnuts, and caramel. Dried flowers and spice, with ginger cutting through. It's elegant but full-bodied, walking that tightrope between dried fruit sweetness and savoury depth, all held together by slicing acidity. Not a wine for the faint-hearted - this asks questions and expects answers. Brilliant if you're in the mood to pay attention.