A Trickster's Barolo Tasting
Unveiling Legends Blind
By Boris · Hosted by Boris Buliga
This is how you fall head over heels---in awe, captivated. Like a fool daring to take the first step, unaware of the grand journey ahead, I have just the right amount of foolish wisdom to say yes to nearly any proposal from certain friends. And some combinations are too tempting to resist---just listen! Barolo and Pantagruel! It's like the union of Psyche and Eros, whose passion brought forth Voluptas. As Mr Yevgen aptly noted---this was a tasting where the wine spoke more than we did (and I'm hardly one to stay quiet). It was an experience that struck the soul---a rare, lasting impression which made me want to keep finding marvels in the world. And now, as I finally understand why some adore Nebbiolo so much, I am doomed to join their endless hunt. Wines like these make you fall deeply, wonderfully in love with their beauty.
Poetry aside, I didn't quite grasp Mr Vasyl's plan at first. It all began with a casual invitation to drink Barolo in a simple format: each person brings a bottle. The idea was to keep it a small gathering but with quality wines. The group sounded intriguing---if not all die-hard fans, then certainly serious admirers of the grape and the region. Finding the right bottle wasn't easy, but I remembered I had a Monvigliero 2017. I had hoped to hold onto it a bit longer, but with few alternatives and Vasyl's clear desire to taste it, I gave in, pulled it from hiding, and kept it a secret.
Two days before the tasting, Vasyl sends over an article, and suddenly I'm set ablaze with the desire to try Barolo Ester Canale Rosso Vigna Rionda---or, honestly, any Vigna Rionda. Naturally, I dream of finding a 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda, but that's no easy feat. But who would have guessed that Vasyl was planning to bring Ester Canale Rosso! He even nudged Julie into bringing another bottle from Vigna Rionda and subtly convinced Alessio to open an older Cavallotto. So there you have it---the trickster orchestrating a truly stellar tasting.
We tasted everything blind, but my own wine was the only one I managed to identify. In fact, everyone guessed it, asking if I'd brought Monvigliero. Its distinct style for Barolo made it instantly recognisable. Later, Vasyl noted that Burlotto is like the Stella di Campalto of Barolo---a fitting comparison.
Honestly, I spent days processing the experience. It was an unforgettable gathering.
| Wine | WAVG | SD | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Giacomo Anselma | #5 | 4.12 | 0.08 | – |
 Comm. G.B. Burlotto | 🥈 | 4.54 | 0.17 | 1 |
 Giovanni Rosso | 🥇 | 4.57 | 0.24 | 5 |
 Cavallotto | #4 | 4.40 | 0.12 | – |
 Barolo Liste2001 Giacomo Borgogno | 🥉 | 4.46 | 0.14 | – |
Giacomo Anselma Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva 2009
This wine turned out to be the most controversial of the evening. There were debates about whether it had some flaw. Some argued that it was perfectly fine, just distinctive, while others insisted it shouldn't be that way. The discussion centered around a very strong aroma of damp wood. While this scent didn't overpower others and seemed to complement them, it was indeed quite strong.
Nevertheless, the wine was intriguing. It presented a vivid bouquet full of dark chocolate with pepper, red berries, moss, raw wood, and concentrated fruit syrup. On the palate, it was robust, with beautiful red berries, distinctly reduced, and hints of flowers and dry earth. It had a long finish with dry, fairly powerful tannins. It's still too early to drink.
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 2017
This wine was very easy to recognise. Since I brought the Monvigliero, I kept quiet, but from the first sniff, I was sure it was my wine in the glass. Soon enough, everyone began asking if I had brought the Monvigliero. Its unique style certainly stood out in a more classic selection. Opinions may vary, but it doesn't bother me, especially considering my limited experience with Barolo.
What can I say? There's no need to rush! The last time I tasted this wine, it wasn't decanted, and I drank it quickly, missing its beauty and depth. But now? It reveals a beautiful and delicate aroma, somewhat perfumed, with notes of stewed wild strawberries, a wet forest, and a very subtle hint of pickles. There's also a touch of milk chocolate and moss emerging. It's delicate, ethereal, perfectly balanced, and incredibly long. It is truly a joy to drink this wine. It may not be typical for the region, but it's wonderfully beautiful!
Giovanni Rosso Barolo Ester Canale Rosso Vigna Rionda 2014
Initially, I didn't quite enjoy this wine. The dominant aromas of amaro, curiosity cola, and caramel felt somewhat simplistic, though appealing. On the palate, it was rather challenging to drink---extremely tannic, reminiscent of overbrewed red (aka black) tea. However, this wine was full of surprises, and watching it develop and unfold in the glass, even after nearly 90 minutes in the decanter, was fascinating. And we didn't rush.
It is quite austere and densely packed but boasts a beautiful bouquet of spices, tart cherries, stones, iron, and red flowers. Over time, the texture became soft and juicy with impressively high acidity, even a hint of salinity, accompanied by long, gripping tannins and a finish of strawberries, wood, earth, dried berries, spices, and dried herbs. It has an excellent structure, a long metallic aftertaste, and is a remarkable wine that surprises with its transformations.
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2009
This wine presents a beautiful bouquet of dried fruits, dried flowers, damp forest floor, compote, and a hint of spices. On the palate, it impresses with high acidity and powerful dry tannins, yet maintains a structured and well-balanced profile. It was fascinating to observe its development in the glass; over time, it became rounder and evolved into a very delicious, ripe experience with a long, earthy finish featuring flavors reminiscent of ya'an cha. Truly delightful.
Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Liste 2001
This wine exudes so much power and energy that its age is deceiving. While there are subtle hints in the bouquet and tannin quality, the vibrant acidity and overall juiciness led me astray. The aromas offer a blend of iodine, mint, pomegranate, hibiscus, mushrooms, prunes, mulberry, and dried cherries. It's both juicy and meaty, achieving near-perfect balance with an intriguing evolution in the glass. Remarkable.