Champagne Bag Vol. 3
A few bottles of Champagne to melt our souls.
By Boris · Hosted by Boris Buliga
It was only a matter of time. The bottles had been resting, quietly biding their time after being taken off the lees, while we, absorbed in the daily routine, resisted their alluring voices. But you know my willpower---it tends to crumble when faced with the charms of sharing something beautiful. So, rather than sticking to the somewhat dull idea of focusing on just one winemaker or a particular wine, I composed a snapshot of winemaking creativity---a small, eclectic mix. At the same time, I thought I'd rescue a few bottles from an untimely fate by burying them even deeper in my stash for us to discover them in the coming years.
So, what was the plan? I set out to open one bottle each from Ulysse Collin, Roses De Jeanne, and Bérêche & Fils, then round things off with something a bit more approachable, keeping everyone's tastes in mind once the final list of participants is known (I'm not here to torment you, after all). But, as you can see, things didn't quite go according to plan. I didn't even get to announce the event properly, and yet more people signed up than I had expected. Now, no offence to anyone, but great wines need space to breathe, and the guests deserve enough wine to fully appreciate its beauty--that's why I strive to keep the number of participants as low as possible. Still, with eight of us gathered, I couldn't stop adding a few more bottles to the lineup.
From the three stars, I settled on Chardonnay-based labels, and to complement them, I chose something lush, expressive, and undeniably delicious---the 2015 Mesnil by Robert Moncuit. But I couldn't let the evening pass without one of my favourite "staples," so Cuvée 745 by Jacquesson joined us. Given the crowd, I realised we needed a touch of sweetness, and for this occasion, Egly-Ouriet's Ratafia seemed like the perfect fit. And, of course, we couldn't start without a welcoming drink---naturally.
And the wines? Well, I'll leave that for you to judge based on our scores. But I can say with certainty that the evening was anything but ordinary. Spectacular wines, warm company, and a cosy location. So, a heartfelt thanks to everyone who joined in this journey through the world of wine, the team at Lo for their hospitality and treats, to Vasyl for the last-minute tartare (always a hit--that's why I always order two servings), and to Maksym for most of these incredible bottles. Beauty is created through the connections between people, and I'm grateful to all of you for being such a part of it!
| Wine | WAVG | SD | Price | QPR | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Blanc de Noirs (2018)(2018) NV Bruno Paillard | 3.85 | 0.15 | – | 3,650 ₴ | – | |
 Roses de Jeanne | #4 | 4.29 | 0.32 | 3 | 6,500 ₴ | 0.92 |
 Cuvée 745 (2017)(2017) NV Jacquesson | #5 | 4.24 | 0.19 | 1 | 3,232 ₴ | 1.18 |
 Mesnil2015 Robert Moncuit | 🥉 | 4.31 | 0.19 | 3 | 3,500 ₴ | 1.30 |
 Bérêche & Fils | 🥇 | 4.52 | 0.12 | 1 | 3,700 ₴ | 2.01 |
 Les Pierrières 48 months (2016)(2016) NV Ulysse Collin | 🥈 | 4.48 | 0.26 | 1 | 7,420 ₴ | 1.31 |
 Egly-Ouriet | #6 | 4.20 | 0.16 | – | 3,500 ₴ | 0.84 |
Bruno Paillard Blanc de Noirs (2018) NV
This wine seems to spark debate. Admittedly, my perception might be influenced by knowing what I was tasting and by indulging in a glass of delicious wine beforehand, while others dismissed it as an average Cava. Magic of blind tastings, I guess.
Personally, I found it delightful. The wine offers abundant yellow apple notes, accented by hints of chalk, lemongrass, honey, and a touch of Jerez. It's fresh, yet not as sharply acidic as some suggested---perhaps the extra bottle aging enhanced its character. The wine displays impressive volume: it's not overly heavy, but it carries itself with confident intensity. The fruit is well-balanced and integrated. Truly excellent.
Roses De Jeanne Haute Lemble HL/R19 2019
As anticipated, this wine was quite polarizing, but it's heartening to see it was well-loved by many. It's an expressive and complex wine, exuding sophistication with a captivating nose of sea, shells, bread crust, yellow plum, citrus, mint, pebbles, and tropical fruits, all underlined by a hint of Jerez. On the palate, it is vibrant and round, boasting intensity and a vinous depth with remarkable length. The finish is delicious, offering notes of white chocolate, tropical fruits, kumquat, and fresh dough. It strikes a great balance and stands out as truly unique.
Jacquesson Cuvée 745 (2017) NV
This remains one of my favorite labels, consistently delivering a delightful experience. The nose is captivating, with aromas of damp cellar, bruised apples, honey, lemon candy, yellow plums, toast, and chalk. It surprises with its freshness---when served blind, most participants assumed it was remarkably young. The wine is voluminous, vinous, and persistent, with a wonderful chalky backbone. I absolutely love it and would savor it daily, if only my stash weren't dwindling.
Robert Moncuit Mesnil 2015
This wine is truly generous and stylish, which explains its broad appeal. It offers a captivating array of aromas, including Duchesse candy, lemon, cream, brioche, honey, vanilla, and hints of basil or tarragon, all complemented by a subtle touch of Jerez. It's dense and intricately layered, with a round, complex profile that remains incredibly easy to drink. The added bonus is its excellent value.
Bérêche & Fils Ludes 1er Cru Les Beaux Regards 2018
This Chardonnay is truly remarkable. It's both profound and generous while maintaining a mineral and vinous character. The intriguing aromas of peanut butter, cheese popcorn, iodine, sweet spices, lemon candy, flowers, and tart make it irresistibly alluring. It presents itself with intensity and rounded length, offering a racy and delicious complexity. The balance is nearly perfect, requiring no effort to unravel its charms---it graciously offers itself up, ready to be savoured.
Ulysse Collin Les Pierrières (2016) NV
Although the nose is somewhat restrained, this wine reveals remarkable complexity and depth on the palate. It's a multi-layered masterpiece, with a beautiful bouquet of tarragon, candied fruits, lemon zest, flowers, wet stones, and almond paste, all kissed by a hint of Jerez. The taste is precise and racy, with a long finish and a touch of tension that complements its perfect balance.
Egly-Ouriet Ratafia Champenois NV
This wine was the perfect conclusion to a delightful evening. The nose is beautifully aromatic, featuring notes of cottage cheese, caramel, honey, and an abundance of candied fruits. While some might prefer a higher acidity, the balance is undeniably impressive. When I served it blind, no one guessed its actual ABV of 17%, with most assuming it was around 13-14%. On the palate, it is round and persistent, offering distinct flavors of bitter herbs, caramel, cottage cheese, and a hint of overripe fruit. Finally, I had enough of this wine to simply savor and enjoy it thoroughly.