Barberry Garden

A wine corner in a crazy world


Monthly report - May 2022




Boris Buliga

Little by little I am getting back to mindful wine consumption. Ratio of total wines rated to total wines consumed is also getting back to normal - 59%. So according to my notes, this month I consumed 49 bottles and rated 29 of them. And all ratings are unique (e.g. no wine was rated twice).

countrycountp avgr rmsqpr
Italy9486.24 UAH6.674.5570
France6933.78 UAH7.4332.3053
Chile5392.00 UAH6.580.5949
New Zealand4670.38 UAH7.395.3719
Australia2735.89 UAH7.501.5850
Ukraine11 100.00 UAH7.501.0561
Spain11 700.00 UAH7.751.9094
Austria1984.72 UAH8.009.6243

Country-wise, this month wasn't that fruitful, only 8 countries are present in my ratings. But there are several interesting points. Somehow Italy got to the first place with 9 wines rated. And despite the fact that during the last 3 months I've been drinking absurdly huge amount of Ukrainian wines, only one was rated, but what a wine - Vinoman BLU Pinot Noir 2019! And what amazes me the most, Chile is on the 3rd place with 5 wines rated. Look, I have nothing against Chile, but my last Chile wine rating was made on 2021-11-20 and before that on 2021-06-17. So not a common guest in my glass. And I must confess, this month I enjoyed some of the Sauvignon Blancs from there.

vintagecountp avgr rmsqpr
20208434.88 UAH6.730.9272
20198622.82 UAH6.972.5612
201831 098.00 UAH7.756.2475
20161395.00 UAH6.500.0749
20141706.00 UAH7.754.5976
201311 377.00 UAH8.5066.9444
NV7806.19 UAH7.1116.8572

The youngest vintage rated is 2020 and it was rated 8 times, it's the same amount of ratings 2019 got. The oldest vintage rated is 2013, and I am happy that it was Champagne - Lamiable Cuvee Pheerie 2013.

In terms of color and carbonation distribution it's quite boring, but since I have this data, let me share it. This month I rated 14 white, 13 red and 2 rosé wines. 21 of all rated wines are still and 8 sparkling.

On the other hand, this month is fruitful in terms of grapes (pun intended). In total, I've rated 26 distinct grapes. And this is considering I've rated 29 wines in total! Top three are Pinot Noir (8), Sauvignon Blanc (5) and Chardonnay (4). But most importantly, this month I've tasted and rated Malvasía de Sitges for the first time in my memory (e.g. my system memory) - it was part of the blend in Raventós i Blanc Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2018.

Now to the most interesting part. My top list of the month.

  1. 8.5 Lamiable Cuvee Pheerie 2013 - almost 9 years old Champagne for 1377 UAH (~$46), that's amazing QPR. Drink now.
  2. 8.5 Jacquesson Cuvée 744 Grand Vin (2016) NV - it's still too young, and seems like it has amazing potential. Buy while it's in stocks and store it for few years..
  3. 8.0 Weingut Bründlmayer Brut Rosé NV - one of my favourite sparkling rosé wines, consistently delivers for a good price.
  4. 8.0 Cascina Bertolotto Spumante Brut Metodo Classico NV - discovery of the month. Traditional sparkling from Piedmont that is almost 13 years old. And I found it by accident, it was hidden on a shelf behind some mainstream Champagne labels. Happy that I did!
  5. 8.0 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2018 - my first Syrah from New Zealand and definitely not the last. I absolutely love the delicacy and complexity of this wine. Having its potential in mind I can only wonder how it evolve in few years.

So despite having rated only 8 sparkling wines, 4 of them are at the top. Who would expect that? And there are other interesting wines I rated this month, but now let's take a look at the worst wines.

  1. 4.5 Cantina la Salute Sauvignon - it is not bad, just… well, at least buy it for adequate price.
  2. 5.0 Barton & Guestier Chardonnay Réserve 2019 - mediocre Chardonnay for those who want to feel oak pieces in their glass.
  3. 5.2 Sizarini Pinot Grigio 2020 - this one must be chilled as much as possible and enjoyed in a hot summer day. Add a nice view, and… ah wine! This one is for background.

Nothing that critical, just mediocre wines. So no witch hunting this month.

2022-05-31New ZealandCraggy RangeCraggy Range Gimblett Gravels Syrah 201820188.0010.5185
2022-05-31UkraineVinomanVinoman BLU Pinot Noir 201920197.501.0561
2022-05-31AustraliaLucy MargauxLucy Margaux Vino Rosso 202020207.501.5009
2022-05-30ItalyCascina BertolottoCascina Bertolotto Spumante Brut Metodo Classico NVNV8.0011.0723
2022-05-29New ZealandSaint ClairSaint Clair Origin Pinot Noir Marlborough 201920197.502.1492
2022-05-29SpainRaventós i BlancRaventós i Blanc Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 201820187.751.9094
2022-05-29FranceFrancois MontandFrancois Montand Méthode Traditionnelle Rosé Brut NVNV7.000.6438
2022-05-27ItalyTerra FrescaTerra Fresca frizzante NVNV6.500.0592
2022-05-27ItalyBorgo SolèBorgo Solè Prosecco Brut NVNV6.500.0740
2022-05-25ItalySavellaSavella Pinot Grigio 202020206.500.0987
2022-05-25ItalyCantina la SaluteCantina la Salute Sauvignon NVNV4.500.0003
2022-05-24ChileConcha y ToroConcha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc 202020207.250.9875
2022-05-23ItalyVilla PucciniVilla Puccini Chianti Riserva 201620166.500.0749
2022-05-21ChileLuis Felipe EdwardsLuis Felipe Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 202020206.500.0871
2022-05-21ChileLuis Felipe EdwardsLuis Felipe Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 201920197.250.8867
2022-05-20FranceBarton & GuestierBarton & Guestier Chardonnay Réserve 201920195.000.0010
2022-05-19ItalySizariniSizarini Pinot Grigio 202020205.250.0029
2022-05-18ChileSan PedroSan Pedro Gato Negro Merlot 202020206.000.0256
2022-05-17FranceLamiableLamiable Cuvee Pheerie 201320138.5066.9444
2022-05-17ChileConcha y ToroConcha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Carmenere Reserva 201920195.750.0067
2022-05-16AustriaWeingut BründlmayerWeingut Bründlmayer Brut Rosé Reserve NVNV8.009.6243
2022-05-15New ZealandFernwayFernway Sauvignon Blanc 201920197.000.2264
2022-05-14FranceJacquessonJacquesson Cuvée 744 Grand Vin (2016) NVNV8.5042.1131
2022-05-11ItalyCascina TavijnCascina Tavijn Bandita 201920197.756.5678
2022-05-10FrancePatrice BeguetPatrice Beguet Big Bunch Theory Fresh Impression Red 202020207.501.8737
2022-05-08AustraliaTwo HandsTwo Hands Sexy Beast 201920197.501.6649
2022-05-04ItalySan LeonardoSan Leonardo Terre di San Leonardo 201420147.754.5976
2022-05-04FrancePaul Benoit et FilsPaul Benoit et Fils Pinot Arbois 201820187.501.6764
2022-05-04New ZealandMud HouseMud House Pinot Noir Central Otago 202020207.000.3466

And I want to finish my report with one special mention. As you might know, Goodwine storage was destroyed at the beginning of the war. Estimated loss is 15 billion euros. Some wines survived physically, though they are completely spoiled. On the last day of May I had an opportunity to taste Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Cœur de Roy 2014 by famous Bernard Dugat-Py. This bottle 'survived' is the fires, though the label was completely ruined and we figured out what wine we opened only thanks to the writings on the cork.

I must note that I don't really like Dugat-Py style. It's powerful, expressive and stands out from other producers, but I find nothing sexy in this style. For example, there is Jean Grivot with expressive and unique style, but his wines are delicate and beautiful. Someone joked that Dugat-Py is Bourgogne for Bordeaux fans.

Nevertheless, I tasted this dead wine and in the flavours of burnt tires and paper, in this disintegrated and broken body I found solace. And I found comfort. It's too early to extract feelings into words, but at least I know that my small world can carry on. Not by inertia, but at will.

Safe travels!