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Boris· Kyiv
Tasting Notes(1)
4.0
Opened two bottles back-to-back; my score is on the better one. The first was clean and neatly drawn - no funk, all fun, the kind of natty red I'd happily reorder. The second, from different glassware, came out fizzier and more obviously natural - not bad on its own merits, but a step away from the clean fruit that made me reach for bottle number two in the first place. Maybe glass shape, maybe bottle variation. Need to keep poking.
About
Dinavolo Vino Rosso is the red sibling to Denavolo's famous extended-maceration orange flagship - shares the name and the zero-zero ethos, but a different wine entirely. Importer copy frames it as designed to "look red, taste white" - the lighter, gulpable end of Giulio Armani's lineup.
The 2023 release simplifies from the previous multi-grape blend (recent vintages running roughly 70-75% Pinot Grigio with about 10% each of Pinot Nero, Barbera, and Bonarda) to 50% Barbera and 50% Pinot Grigio in equal parts - a vintage-driven change given the catastrophic Emilia 2023 season. The Barbera is direct-pressed white-style (juice off the skins); the Pinot Grigio macerates around two months on skins. Indigenous yeasts, no additions, no SO2 at bottling. Bottled 20 July 2024. 13% ABV.
2023 in Emilia-Romagna was defined by a May deluge of around 600 mm of rain in two days, followed by widespread downy mildew. The eastern Romagna side fared worst (Sangiovese and Albana down around 70% in places); Colli Piacentini, where Denavolo sits, suffered too. Survivor wines across the region are lifted, perfumed, lower-alcohol, lighter on concentration - consistent with the 13% here and the simplified blend.
