Mai Ferma

Ooof, this decade-old Garganega has aged into something properly compelling. Opens with salted nuts and bruised apples, then unfolds into this gorgeous tapestry of honey-glazed quince and medicinal herbs. There's a whisper of sherry oxidation that somehow works, all wrapped in this salty, pomelo-bitter embrace. Round and generous on the palate, almost too comfortable with itself. Yes, the acidity's gone AWOL - it's like meeting a charismatic person who speaks too slowly. Still delicious, but you keep wishing it had more spark. That missing energy is what keeps this from true greatness.