La Tâche Grand Cru

Oh ok. At first, it's full-on horse's arse, but then - behind the funk and a wave of brandy-like notes - come dates, spices, earth, soy sauce, caramel, damp wood, dried raspberry and dried wild strawberry. The palate hits with seriously high acidity, still some tannin, though the structure is beginning to fray a bit. Flavours of lime dust, chalk, ya'an cha, fig, raisins. There's still body and texture holding it all together. It's good - though we're flirting with necromancy here. Then again, if this were Tamriel, I'd happily risk arrest for this kind of magic.