Barolo Riserva

Wow. Prune, dried berries, balsamic, leather, mushrooms. The acidity is still soaring, the fruit still present - after sixty-eight years, that's not ageing, that's defiance. Magnificent tannin, fully resolved into something silky and almost weightless. Dust, old wardrobe, coffee notes on the finish. This is a wine that's honestly, simply pleasant to drink - which is the most extraordinary thing you can say about a bottle from 1958. It doesn't demand reverence. It just sits in the glass and glows.