I Sassi di San Giuseppe

The farm has made wine in the Gentili family's old farmhouse near Montegiorgio since 1896, by its own account. Today the bottles carry the name of Fernando Gentili, and the farm is also a guest house, looking out over the Marche countryside towards the Sibillini mountains.

The vineyards cover about two hectares. The farm has been organic since 2009, with grass between the rows and hoeing around the vines.

The family says it has always made so-called natural wines. It ferments in small batches, which, it says, spares it the chemical additives that large volumes normally need. The barrel cellar is an underground cave with a steady temperature and humidity.

The range is small. Rosso Crudo spends at least five years in French oak barriques. Dolium and the Pecorino Bianco Vivo go into terracotta, and two classic-method sparkling wines come from Pecorino and from Sangiovese vinified white. There is also a vino cotto, the cooked wine of the Piceno.

Two hectares, a cave cellar and a farmhouse from 1896.