Mixed Bag Vol. 16
A classical mixed bag in its fullest glory.
By Boris · Hosted by Boris Buliga
Sometimes, ideas are voiced but left hanging in the air, waiting... for what, no one really knows. And as we rush about, consumed by our trivial human affairs, those ideas wither and grow lonely. But thankfully, some people notice this injustice and say, "Alright, everyone, let's finally get together as planned." These moments of determination and clarity seem to align the stars, making everything fall into place as it should.
Ah, this sounds like the preface to some esoteric book---or perhaps a greeting from a cult. And in a way, it is. After all, we're here to cultivate a form of Dionysian joy in its broadest sense. It's not just about drinking wine; we embrace all the delights life offers---grilled chicken, strong spirits, cigars, sweets, and more. The evening stretches out, and we somehow manage to pack the richness of a few days into just a handful of hours. Yet it all feels unhurried, savoured.
The choice of wine was obvious: a classic mixed bag where anything goes. Here, we have bottles worth sharing and those we were curious to taste. Together with Maksym, we worked our magic, and the result was both delicious and fascinating. What can I say? Sometimes, you have to give yourself credit too.
So, here's a look at the wines we enjoyed.
| Wine | WAVG | SD | Price | QPR | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Mesnil2015 Robert Moncuit | 🥈 | 4.26 | 0.13 | 1 | 4,130 ₴ | 1.10 |
 Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups | 🥉 | 4.22 | 0.06 | 2 | 1,946 ₴ | 1.17 |
 Integer Bianco2022 Marco De Bartoli | #7 | 4.04 | 0.14 | – | 1,728 ₴ | 0.86 |
 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey | #6 | 4.08 | 0.09 | 1 | 1,760 ₴ | 0.92 |
 La Bruja2023 Comando G | #4 | 4.16 | 0.12 | 1 | 1,190 ₴ | 1.31 |
 Rouge2017 Château Musar | #5 | 4.10 | 0.11 | – | 2,380 ₴ | 0.82 |
 Famille Brechet | #7 | 4.04 | 0.20 | 2 | 1,902 ₴ | 0.81 |
 Domaine Shadrapa | 3.83 | 0.05 | – | – | – | |
 Henriques & Henriques | 🥇 | 4.29 | 0.17 | – | 3,250 ₴ | 1.06 |
Robert Moncuit Mesnil 2015
This wine presents an inviting bouquet of lemon, brioche, and Duchesse candy, enriched with notes of cream, honey, vanilla, and delicate hints of basil or tarragon. A subtle touch of Jerez adds complexity. It is dense and intricately layered, boasting a round, complex profile that remains remarkably approachable.
Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Montlouis sur Loire Les Hauts de Husseau 2022
Though still youthful and slightly green, this wine already reveals its high class and potential. The nose is appealing, offering aromas of quince, flowers, sea air, pebbles, and a hint of smoke. On the palate, it presents pinpoint acidity and a crisp character, with a slightly buttery texture that keeps it well-balanced. This harmony leads to a deliciously long, flinty aftertaste. While the palate shows some greenness, a bit more time in the bottle will allow it to develop further.
Marco De Bartoli Integer Bianco 2022
As anticipated, this wine delivers as expected, though it may spark some debate. It offers a salty, mineral-driven profile with delightful fruit notes of peach and canned pineapple. These are complemented by nuances of medicinal herbs, ginger, lemon sorbet, and bruised apples. The tannins are good and well-integrated, supported by a herbal backbone that adds depth and complexity.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay 2022
For me, this was the most controversial wine of the evening. It hails from a broad appellation and is still very young, yet it's crafted by PYCM, which builds expectations. The wine is certainly packed with character, but its intense reduction and closed nature indicate that it may have been opened prematurely. Nevertheless, it presents an intriguing mix of smoke, butter, yellow fruits, sardines, and a touch of wet wool. It boasts great acidity and a pleasant texture, although it still shows a green edge. In any case, it's a remarkable wine and it can easily beat some more specific appellations.
Comando G La Bruja 2023
La Bruja has undergone a significant evolution since 2018, transitioning from a village wine from Rozas de Puerto Real to a regional wine from Cebreros. This change seems to have infused it with new charm. While it may be less austere and serious on the palate, it's now more delicate, subtle, open, and notably juicier and fruitier.
This wine is my pleasure and I don't feel any guilty about it. Its remarkable nature is captivating, with a charming and seductive nose featuring red fruits, earthy tones, red flowers, herbs, and mushrooms. On the palate, it offers a silky texture; when tannins begin to make their presence known, they are beautifully balanced by the vibrant fruit and minerality. Despite its delicacy, it retains a distinctly stony character, highlighting its minerality. Delicate, quaffable, and utterly enjoyable, it's a wine that invites you to savor every sip.
Château Musar Rouge 2017
This wine is an excellent and reliable choice. It offers an inviting bouquet of cassis jam, dark fruits, leather, spices, and olives. With impressive concentration, it also boasts decent acidity and a firm structure. While I have no doubt it will age gracefully, it's already a pleasure to enjoy now. Though reminiscent of a Bordeaux-style wine, it possesses a distinct character and unique voice.
Famille Brechet Château de Vaudieu Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021
I seldom indulge in Southern Rhône wines, so they remain a bit of an enigma to me. This particular wine is exceptionally concentrated and inky, possessing a power that I find challenging to fully appreciate. It's as if the sheer weight of all popes in history---perhaps since Pope Clement V---was applied to crush the grapes, achieving this level of viscosity and concentration. To me, it comes across as rather simple, potentially because it is still too young.
The nose offers notes of plums, black pepper, and vanilla. While there is a sense of balance on the palate, there is room for improvement™. Although the wine is long and delicious, it might just not align with my personal style.
Domaine Shadrapa Cabernet Sauvignon -- Merlot 2013
Oh, this one is delightful. I find it vastly improved compared to the 2018 vintage. Though it still lacks a bit in texture and concentration, its more mature profile makes it a pleasant wine to enjoy with good company. It offers notes of red wild berries, plums, spices, and cacao, with a freshness that's complemented by mature tannins. The aftertaste is relatively long. However, I wouldn't recommend ageing it much longer, as it might start to lose its cohesiveness.
Henriques & Henriques Boal Single Harvest 2000
This Madeira is truly one of my favorites. While I agree with Vasyl Velykanskiy that a touch more acidity would enhance it (I still miss Barbeito Malvasia Single Cask 83 B+C 2005), it remains stunningly beautiful. It's complex and multilayered, offering a rich and delicious experience. The nose profile includes sweet spices, dried dates, brown sugar, maple syrup, mushrooms, and a hint of damp cellar ambiance. It's a complex, complete, and generous expression, teetering on the edge of perfect balance---though it could indeed use a bit more freshness. I'm admittedly subjective, but I could enjoy it in large quantities.