
2015
Region
Italy › Piedmont › Gattinara
Type
red · still
Grapes
Nebbiolo
Alcohol
13.5%
Volume
750 mL
Available at
Acid sweets on the nose lead into rose petals, hibiscus tea (karkade), and the green-black register of yancha, sitting on top of an earthy core - the kind of harmonious ageing arc the volcanic Alto Piemonte does so well. Still fresh on the palate, the tannin dry but well integrated, with a blood-and-iron undercurrent that elevates the whole thing into something simply delicious. A touch dusty, very good acidity, properly elegant. Blind I was leaning toward a sandy-soil commune in Barolo (definitely not Valtellina); the answer being Nervi makes complete retrospective sense - this is Gattinara's vertical, ferrous side.
The 2015 is the estate Gattinara from the final Norwegian-era vintages, bottled before Roberto Conterno's 2018 takeover and the cellar overhaul that followed. It is a blend across the Nervi holdings on Gattinara's red porphyry and gravel soils, vinified as 100 percent Nebbiolo and aged for around three years in a mix of Slavonian and French large casks before bottling. The 2015 growing season in Alto Piemonte was warm and dry after a cool winter, yielding healthy, ripe Nebbiolo with concentration on the upper end for the region. Expect the lifted, ferrous, fine-tannined profile that defines volcanic Gattinara rather than the muscle of southern Langhe.
Wonderful. Guessed Nebbiolo immediately. A gorgeous Nordic style - bright red fruit, great charge, but very delicate and interesting. Delicious. Alto Piemonte at its most elegant - less power than Barolo, more finesse, and all the better for it.