Vinha Pan Espumante

Cheese rind, stewed onion, bruised apples, and honey - the nose is unusual, almost rustic, with a soft oxidative edge that feels oddly charming. On the palate, it's fresh and pleasantly evolved, though the complexity doesn't run deep. It already feels a touch fatigued, which casts doubt on the idea of ageing it 15 years - a claim made by Mark Squires in his review of the 2018 vintage for Robert Parker, and one that feels more myth than plan. The acidity is there, but not of the enduring kind. Still, it has its appeal - more of a curious character than a serious contender.