Yomatari

Retsina with a straight face. Domaine Ligas farms permaculture vineyards up in Pella, in Greek Macedonia, where Thomas Ligas and his children rank among the pioneers who pulled Greek natural wine into serious company. Yomatari is their Retsina, the resinated old style most of Greece still writes off as cheap taverna fare, done properly: 80% Assyrtiko and 20% Roditis, certified organic, fermented with nothing added and bottled cloudy, unfiltered and unfined, without added sulphur. The pine resin here is a seasoning, not the whole show. 13%, and an argument that Retsina deserves better than its reputation.