Vinul Moldovei Vol. 2
There's a world of smaller producers, lesser-known vineyards, each with its own story, waiting to be discovered and savoured.
By Boris · Hosted by Boris Buliga
While people continue to drive up views on that video explaining Moldova's very existence (since our last meeting, it's skyrocketed to become the top result when searching for the country's history in English), I, like a patient Moldovan hobbit, quietly and steadily gather local wines to drink and share. And really, why be gloomy? While geopolitics thrusts Moldova into the spotlight for all the wrong reasons, I suggest stepping away from the flickering screens and tasting a piece of that history for ourselves. O legendă vie---a living legend. In a sense, we're having our own little wine festival here, just a bit earlier and with fewer bottles. But hey, it's not just about Purcari, Mileștii Mici, and Cricova! There's a world of smaller producers, lesser-known vineyards, each with its own story, waiting to be discovered and savoured. And what better way to experience Moldova than through the glass, one sip at a time?
| Wine | WAVG | SD | Price | QPR | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 Osânda2022 DiWinety | #6 | 3.91 | 0.32 | – | 450 ₴ | 1.28 |
 La Petite Sophie2021 Gitana Winery | #4 | 3.97 | 0.97 | 3 | 1,180 ₴ | 0.89 |
| #5 | 3.95 | 0.17 | 2 | 810 ₴ | 1.04 | |
 Roșu Împărat2021 Minis Terrios | 🥇 | 4.10 | 0.38 | 2 | 675 ₴ | 1.55 |
 Lupi2018 Gitana Winery | 🥉 | 4.06 | 0.36 | 1 | 1,300 ₴ | 1.03 |
 Novak | #7 | 3.90 | 0.15 | 2 | 820 ₴ | 0.94 |
 Maurice Vesselle | 🥈 | 4.09 | 0.77 | – | 3,380 ₴ | 0.85 |
 Brutal Orange2023 Matassa | – | – | – | 1,467 ₴ | – |
DiWinety Osânda 2022
Osânda (Condemnation) is a 100% Fetească Regală from Codru, aged in a combination of mulberry, pine, and acacia woods. While not overly complex, it presents a charmingly aromatic profile with delicate notes of white fruits, reminiscent of white mulberry and white cherry, complemented by a subtle hint of riverbank pebbles. On the palate, it offers a fresh experience. The potential crispness is tempered by an oily texture, which rounds out the flavors and adds volume. This intriguing producer is definitely worth watching.
Gitana Winery La Petite Sophie 2021
Even though it's not typically my style, I genuinely enjoyed every drop of this wine. I would prefer a less pronounced oak influence, but it seems to be an ever growing trend at this winery, especially noticeable in their Lupi. The nose offers a delightful bouquet of lemon, buttered bread, white flowers, caramel, and apple povydlo. Its structure is neat, bordering on full-bodied, with a surprising freshness. Overall, it is well balanced with a pleasant touch of bitterness. It could benefit from a bit more time in the bottle.
Te Wā Cebernet Sauvignon, Saperavi & Merlot 2019
This was my first encounter with this relatively new winery, and I was pleasantly surprised by its fruity and juicy character, considering its origin. The wine is bursting with red and dark fruits, complemented by spices, a hint of smoke, and a touch of oak. On the palate, it is round and fresh, with flavors of fruits, chocolate, and cinnamon.
Minis Terrios Roșu Împărat 2021
I love this wine and hope to get a few more bottles for aging, as this one was opened a bit too soon. The beautiful nose offers enticing aromas of milk chocolate, fig, spices, black fruits, cornus, blood, and earth. On the palate, it is fresh, voluminous, and persistent, bordering on full-bodied. While the tannins are still green and grippy, the wine remains well-balanced. This complex and intriguing bottle also offers a neat connection to Ion Creangă's "Harap Alb" story.
Gitana Winery Lupi 2018
Considering how much I cherished this wine during my school days (lol), I approached tasting it again with caution. Yet, despite its bolder, somewhat heavier, and more pretentious character (the new bottle design speaks volumes), I truly enjoyed reconnecting with it after so many years. Its aging process---first in large Slavonian oak for two years, followed by 14 months in new French and American barriques---has produced a well-integrated and plush wine. The nose offers a jammy, opulent bouquet with abundant black currant, black cherry, sweet spices, oak, and eucalyptus. The body is round and full-bodied with medium-plus acidity, firm and sweet tannins, and a long aftertaste. Still youthful, this wine, in my opinion, is worth aging further. But even today it's a complex and delicious wine.
Novak Black Label Red Blend #2 2017
I had some expectations for this label, but unfortunately, it ended up being the most uninspiring wine of the evening. It's not that all the other bottles were particularly niche or experimental---some were quite mainstream and commercial. However, this wine just didn't stand out. It offered generic notes of black fruits, spices, smoke, and oak, but lacked confidence and freshness. On the plus side, its straightforward character makes it easy to understand.
Maurice Vesselle Grand Cru Millésimé 2013
This is a lovely bottle that seems to have remained consistent over the past year. It exhibits delightful aromas of baked apples, honey, Sherry, white flowers, and a touch of wet cellar. On the palate, it is intense and crisp (no MLF), with an almost perfect balance, great mousse, and a long aftertaste. Rich, complex, and absolutely delicious.