Stepping into the sanctum of Montalcino's terroir, a recent wine tasting unfolded as a journey through the essence of Stella di Campalto's viticultural artistry - a meeting I approached with keen anticipation, aware of the rarefied experience that awaited. Stella's wines, a symphony of the region's diverse soils, are a testament to her standing as one of the preeminent masters of Montalcino. Each bottle I have encountered has left an indelible imprint, a medley of femininity and finesse, inviting a deeper exploration into whether the charm of these vintages stems from the land's authentic voice or the unique whisper of Stella's own style.

Stella di Campalto

Stella di Campalto is a remarkable winemaker known for her dedication to organic and biodynamic viticulture at her family winery. She took over winemaking and viticulture in 1992, and by 1996, she had transitioned to certified organic farming. Biodynamic practices were introduced in 2002, with certification following in 2005. The estate is situated at the southeastern corner of the Montalcino zone and includes about 6 hectares of vineyards, with the rest of the 13-hectare property composed of olive groves and woodlands.

The estate itself, San Giuseppe, was originally established in 1910 but lay abandoned for decades until Stella di Campalto's family purchased it in the early 1990s. With no prior experience in winemaking, Stella embarked on a journey to revive the land, living under rustic conditions while she cultivated the vineyards and built the winery from scratch. Stella's approach to winemaking is deeply personal, with a strong connection to the land, which is reflected in the unique personalities of her wines.

Located near Monte Amiata in Tuscany, the land was initially not considered very desirable. However, its isolation became an asset, providing a unique terroir characterized by 12 different types of soil, ranging from quartz to volcanic black earth, contributing to the complexity of her wines. The vineyards benefit from their south and west-facing position towards the sea, above the Ombrone River, which is ideal for viticulture.

Stella employs various biodynamic practices, such as planting 25 different types of grains among the vines to maintain soil vitality and using traditional biodynamic treatments. Her approach to vine pruning is non-invasive, allowing the vines to reach their natural equilibrium. The winery itself is built into the hillside, allowing for a gravity-flow system that gently handles the grapes, and she employs spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, keeping each vineyard block separate to maintain their individual characters.

Grapes release their skins, in their element. Three extra years of aging---simplicity happens. Let it go: press, macerate, mutate, elevate. Into the cellar, from earth to oak. An alchemical pause, perfectly poised. It takes time, an eternity: surprises happen when you stop looking, and wait.

Stella di Campalto initially produced only Rosso di Montalcino, gaining recognition for creating wines with distinct identities, which she refers to as "identity" wines. She often ages her wines longer than the DOCG requirements, blending them only when they are ready, in a process she likens to matchmaking. Her wines are known for their authenticity and elegance, with bright ruby red colours and complex yet delicate aromas, reminiscent more of Burgundy than Bordeaux.

Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino Cielo 2018

The 2018 Cielo, christened 'Aerial', embodies the ethereal aspects of its namesake, the sky. With its graceful ageing - 31 months in wood and 20 months in the bottle - this mellifluous Brunello di Montalcino has soared into existence in a limited release of 7225 standard bottles and 1400 magnums, each a coveted vessel of Stella's lofty aspirations for the year.

Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino Sasso 2016

The 2016 Sasso, 'La Limpidezza', mirrors the clarity its name suggests. Born from a mere 0.4-hectare parcel, this vintage crystallizes into a pure expression of place. Its 42 months in wood and extended 32 months in the bottle culminate in a mere 2887 standard bottles and 270 magnums, each a beacon of the vintage's lucid character.

Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino Piccoli Contenitori 2016

That same year, La Limpidezza found another voice in Piccoli Contenitori, a testament to the virtue of small-scale refinement. With an identical bottle count to Sasso and a nuanced 42 months of wood ageing followed by 27 months in the bottle, this wine captures the clear, bright essence of its vintage in every sip.

Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino VCLC 2016

The VCLC 2016, hailing from the eponymous 'Vigna Curva Lato Cantina', is yet another embodiment of Clarity. It rests for 43 months cradled by wood and an additional 32 months in the bottle, emerging in 6447 standard bottles and 770 magnums, each a testament to the vintage's vivid transparency.

Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino 2015 (magnum)

Lastly, the 2015 Magnum, named 'La Setosità' for its silkiness, weaves a complex yet effortlessly drinkable texture. A generous vintage, it boasts 11747 standard bottles, 1204 magnums, and 77 double magnums, each one aged for 45 months in wood and 20 months in bottle, presenting a tapestry of tactile delight.

Resources

• Stella di Campalto. Polaner Selections.
• Stella di Campalto. Volio.
• Azienda Agricola Stella di Campalto. North Berkeley Imports.
• Stella di Campalto: Soul, Soil and Biodynamic Brunello. Eleanor Shannon.

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