La Mailloche Vin Jaune

Dense and peaty nose - nuts, straw, candied orange all present and correct. The palate has this slightly hoppy character (that clay terroir showing off), rich and creamy with spices and walnuts carrying through. There's proper structure here, that firm clay backbone giving weight and just enough bitterness to keep things interesting. Maple syrup sweetness trying to balance everything. Long finish that goes on forever. But something's off in the balance - not quite singing like it should. This bottle's not showing its best, which is frustrating because you can taste what it wants to be. Even compromised, it's still bloody good. La Mailloche on an off day still beats most wines at their peak.

Same beauty as always. Love or hate story. Fino Jerez, raw walnut, medicinal herbs, mould, caramel and curry. Fresh and powerfully persistent. Catnip for people.

As gorgeous as ever. My position on the love-or-hate scale is quite obvious. Fino Jerez, mandarine marmalade, raw walnut, medicinal herbs, mould and honey. Bright, expressive, complex, fresh and well-balanced. Lovely aftertaste with notes of wormwood. Typical Vin Jaune, yet more interesting than, say, Domaine de La Borde Vin Jaune. And despite all the expressiveness is somehow manages to stay friendly and approachable.

Give me a glass of good Vin Jaune, and I will melt. Powerful and complex wine. Jerez-like bouquet: apple, nuts, mould, mushrooms, honey and citrus. Multilayered, fresh and with a persistent aftertaste. Though it is worth noting that the aftertaste is not as aggressive as, say, Savagnin oxydatif by Domaine de la Touraize. Neat treat.